The "Stan" countries always remained a bit of a mystery to us, none of our close friends or family had ever been there and we just didn't really know what to expect. With that being said, one of the best photographed countries in this region has to be Uzbekistan.
Have you seen turquoise patterned buildings reminiscent of Islamic architecture? Chances are that you've seen pictures of Uzbekistan before! It had a key role in connecting East and West back in the times of the Great Silk Roads. The Great Silk Road became a system of trading routes stretching from the Mediterranean Sea to China. It developed trade, international relations and cultural ties with people and states along the way. Apart from the silk trade between China and the West, minerals, spices, animals and many other exotic goods also passed these routes. The art of music and dance performances ended up influencing and being adopted by the various cultures along the route. It also became a way for merchants, travellers and diplomats to exchange information.
Uzbekistan has had so many influences: Turkic, Persian, Arabic, Chinese, Mongolian, Russian to name a few, which to this day can be seen in the local culture and architecture. If this doesn't already urge you to add it to your bucket list let us reassure you that nowadays, you don't need to travel by camel caravan anymore to get there. You can use the convenience and comfort of Uzbekistan Airways instead.
Although for us, Uzbekistan seemed like one of the "countries less travelled" and a great place to discover some hidden gems, it somehow was always high on the radar of the adventurous traveller. We truly believe that our post has some valuable information for those who don't speak Uzbek or Russian and who want to explore Uzbekistan without a fully guided tour. We did all the discovering by ourselves because thankfully Oleg could communicate with the locals, so you can trust us when we say that we've got some amazing tips to share with you!
Good to know:
Official language: Uzbek, although Russian is widely spoken. English is barely spoken, only by people in the tourism industry or some of the younger generation.
Currency: Uzbekistan Som (UZS).
They accept foreign credit cards however it is advised to have cash on you. Typically hotels, and big restaurants will take card but many taxi's, supermarkets and restaurants only take cash.
Uzbekistan has a population of 35 million people and Tashkent is the capital where 2.6 million people reside. Samarkand is the second largest city with a population of about 600,000.
Uzbekistan Airways in our experience was a great and reliable option to fly from India to Central Asia and to fly within Central Asia,
Although we didn't do any ourselves, land border crossings are possible. We would advise to contact tourist companies to help you with private transportation.
Around 60 countries and territories have visa-free access to Uzbekistan, making it an easy destination for most tourists. Otherwise it is a relatively easy e-visa process for the rest.
Travelling by train has proven to be a great way to explore the country and reach most of the cities.
Dress code: our advice is to dress modestly since it is a muslim country. However, they did not seem strict about how people dress at various sites. We also saw a lot of variation in how locals dressed. At some sites of interest, specifically where prayer/worship takes place you may need to be dressed appropriately and cover your hair with a scarf (for women).
Opening hours are not always accurate online. We have found that most sites will open 8:00 or 9:00 depending on the season. You can always pass by to ask for the most up to date opening hours.
Good to know about trains:
Buying train tickets can be complicated for non-Uzbek or non-Russian speakers. Beware of websites offering to buy them for you, as they charge much more. We ended up buying tickets directly from Uzbekistan railways company .
Book in advance so you can have the first choice for train type, times and seats.
There is a choice between the high speed train (Afrosiyob) which will take you 2 hours and 10 minutes from Tashkent to Samarkand. Otherwise just take a 3 hours 20 minutes train to Samarkand.
Return tickets with the slower train option for us were 14 EUR per person.
If you get stuck on the website booking the train tickets, please feel free to reach out to us via our contact form under the "work with us" section.
Good to know about taxi's:
Taxi's are cheap in Uzbekistan, if you can't figure out our instructions below to order a taxi just flag one on the street and be prepared to negotiate with them.
Uber is not available. The alternative to it is Yandex Taxi or Yandex Go, however this is not available in the Apple Store anymore as an app.
To use Yandex Taxi, you can use the web browser. You will need to insert a local mobile number so in order to use this option, you will need to get a sim card (can be done at the airport and costs anywhere between 5-10 euros depending on what data package you want).
To order a taxi, you insert the address or location of where you are now and where you need to go and select taxi type, once this is done the rest is similar to Uber.
Monitor when the taxi arrives through the website browser and please note that you can only pay cash (amount will be clearly indicated).
If you get stuck with the web browser, and would really like to know how to use it. Please feel free to reach out through the contact form on the "work with us" section.
Good to know about the metro:
The metro is even cheaper than the taxi.
Metro lines only run through very specific routes in Tashkent, which doesn't make it the most convenient method of travel depending on where you need to go.
Easy to use but they don't announce anything in English so keep track by remembering the name of the station or how many stops you're travelling.
Buy a ticket at the metro stop cashier called "kassa" written in cyrillic "kacca". Remember, if they don't speak English hand gestures for numbers can help you. One ticket costs 1400 UZS (Uzbekistan Som) which is approximately 0.11 EUR.
Good to know about souvenirs:
We also enjoy bringing souvenirs back home and would like to share our tips since we couldn't find a lot of useful resources online about this.
Siyob Bozor (Siab Bazaar) Samarkand - this had by far the biggest amount of choice and was the best area for bargaining as they expect you to bargain (start at about half of their asking price). We would only go here for cheaper souvenirs, such as scarves and small trinkets. There are a couple of things that are really popular to get like Suzani embroidered clothing and ikat printed jackets. If you're looking for Suzani embroidery we would not recommend buying it here as most items looked machine embroidered. The ikat printed clothes are either made of silk (more premium) or a synthetic material like polyester which will be a lot cheaper.
Hunarmandlar markazi Samarkand - this had the best quality souvenirs. Here you can observe the merchants making their artwork by hand and because they haven't been overrun by tourists they actually really like it when you take pictures as they see it as advertisement for their shops. Highly recommend getting something from here! We bought a hand painted magnet and did not negotiate the price as it was very cheap. However, we're sure that if you're buying more items they'll give you a good discount.
Hazrati Imam Complex Tashkent - we actually saw someone doing the Suzani embroidery by hand so this may also be a good option for souvenirs. The prices are much more inflated here though so it would be recommended to check the quality of the items and ask where they are made. Be prepared to negotiate prices here due to the high pricing of their goods in this location.
Day 1-2: Tashkent
Start the day early, yes we know it's easy for us to say as morning people but it will allow you to beat the heat and the crowds! Although Uzbekistan has not been over hyped yet by social media, it still attracts a lot of tourist groups. The Hazrati Imam Complex is a great place to start. The site has mausoleums, madrasahs (Arabic word for teaching and learning place) and mosques. Some of the oldest buildings date back to the 16th century and the site was thoroughly restored in 2007. The library in the Muyi Muborak Madrasah is known for having the oldest copies of scriptures like the Qur'an of Uthman. It is believed to be the world's oldest manuscript of the Qur'an dating back to the 8th century.
After that, check out Chorsu Bazaar to experience a Central Asian market. They sell fruit, vegetables, meat, spices and bread. It can be a hectic experience as it gets busy and the vendors will try to get your attention by offering you to try items but it's all part of the atmosphere and we didn't find them very pushy.
The next day, depending on where you're based you could take a metro in the direction of Amir Temur Square. The metro is an experience in itself and some of the stations are decorated beautifully such as Mustakillik maydoni and Pakhtakor. To get into the Amir Temur Square you will have to find an underpass but if you are happy to walk around it you can pass by the State Museum of the Temurids.
Top sites to visit:
Chorsu Bazaar
Hazrati Imam Complex
Amir Temur Square
Minor Mosque
If short on time, skip:
Magic City Park
How to get around
Walk
Taxi
Metro
Where to stay
Bobur hotel - This hotel is well priced, modern and clean. We liked the area it was in as it was walking distance from supermarkets and restaurants. It is a bit cheaper to make a reservation directly with them rather than through booking.com. There are no elevators so we don't recommend this place for those with mobility issues. We have found that in all the Stan countries, staff will always offer to help you carry your suitcase.
For the foodies:
Lunch
Testo by Zamira&Co (for the best dumplings in the area, with an endless number of flavour options and good coffee. We never had space left to try any but there were also lots of sweet treats that looked great)
Recommendation from a friend
Beshqozon (for Uzbek plov in Tashkent, made in enormous quantities and we've been told to go around lunch time)
Dinner
Sim Sim (what we loved about the place is that you could have local food in a comfortable setting, good service, and they always had space for walk ins. Every evening we went here there was some kind of event on in the private room next to the main restaurant dining area. The decorations are colourful, a little over the top, and there is live music. The food was awesome, they have lots of choice but we kept it with salads to start and meat skewers as a main. The portions are generous so keep in mind that you may want to share)
Day 3-4: Samarkand
Samarkand is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia, famous for its turquoise domes and minarets, craft production and mix of cultures and religions. In the 14th century it was the capital of the Timurid dynasty. One of the most interesting Timurid sites are Registan square and Shah-i Zinde. The first one for its courtyard, surrounded on three sides by arches, minarets and islamic colleges. The latter is a complex of mausoleums decorated in shades of blue and turquoise ceramic tiles.
Registan Square, Amir Temur Mausoleum and Hunarmandlar markazi
To visit Registan square we suggest to start as early as possible, depending on the season, you can enter this site either at 08:00 or at 09:00. It is quite a popular site and is one of the most stunning attractions in Samarkand. There is no particular sequence in which you need to visit madrasahs of Registan Complex, but we found that the one on the left (called Ulugbek) has the most beatiful garden and access to the second floor where you can have tea or coffee with a picturesque view. Ulughbek Madrasah was the first madrasah to be built on Registan Square and was considered to be the one of the most prestigious Muslim universities of the 15th century. The other two madrasahs would be built two centuries later.
The Amir Temur Mausoleum is walking distance from Registan Square and another site worth seeing. It is the final resting place of Timur (Tamerlane), two sons and two grandsons. Timur was a Turco-Mongol conqueror who founded the Timurid empire. The inside of the mausoleum is beautifully decorated, and the details are incredible!
A visit to the Hunarmandlar Markazi, or the centre of artisans can't be missed. It's a great opportunity to speak to local artists and admire their works. The courtyard and building itself are also a good reason to visit the place, make sure you find the steps to go up to the first floor and see more of the shops.
Shah-i-Zinda and Siyob Bozor and Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Shah-i-Zinda is also known as the street cemetery or avenue of mausoleums. The site consists of tombs inside intricately decorated buildings with domes. Many pictures of Samarkand are often taken here, which is why it can come as a surprise that people are basically posting photos of a cemetery. Shah-i-Zinda means "Tomb of the living King" and has the grave of 7th century Qusam, the cousin of the prophet Mohammed. The colours and details of the tiles are stunning, we had to make sure to stop and look up every now and then to really appreciate and take in the beauty of the site.
After that, head over to Siyob bozor which is the largest bazaar in Samarkand and located next to Bibi-Khanym Mosque. The selection of fruits, spices, and nuts are similar to those at Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent however the souvenir selection is a lot better. Just be mindful of the opening hours, there isn't much information available online but it's open every day except Mondays.
A visit to Bibi-Khanym Mosque can be done in the late afternoon just before closing time. As golden hour hits, the light reflects off the decorative tiles creating a beautiful scenery. Birds will be dancing around the domes and the crowds will have died down leaving the place empty and perfect to explore in peace.
How to get around:
Walk
Taxi (outside of the pedestrian zone in the city centre)
Top sites to visit:
Registan square
Shah-i-Zinda
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Siyob Bozor (Siab bazaar)
Amir Temur Mausoleum
Hunarmandlar markazi (to find it on Google maps put in "Happy Bird Art Gallery")
Where to stay:
Old Radio Hostel - We had a private room in the Old Radio Hostel and would highly recommend staying here when you're in Samarkand. It was a clean and spacious room with A/C and didn't feel like we were in a hostel at all because we had a private bathroom. It can be a bit tricky to find as it's down an alley where cars can't go down. It is right around the corner from the main walking street but perfectly tucked away so you don't hear any of the noise. If you stay here, make sure you look out for their cute pet turtle.
For the foodies:
Lunch
Ikat Cafe & Restaurant (we came back here for lunch every day because the food was delicious and the restaurant is spacious so there most likely will always be space for you when you walk in. We loved the somsa, which is a puff pastry filled with meat and the manti which are big dumplings)
Dinner
Mazza food (National house Lutfillo), phone number: +998 90 251 99 66.
This place deserves a special mention as it was one of the most unique dining experiences we've had so far. Don't come here expecting to find the place via Google Maps or just walking in. You will have to be very lucky for them to have space as it's a family who have decided to use their house to host dinners mostly catering for big tour groups. The food is traditional and you can watch while it's being prepared. We found the phone number of the owner on Facebook and it said that you could make reservations via Whatsapp. This is where the story starts as Qiao-An thought that with Oleg's advantage of being able to speak Russian, we would be able to get a reservation no problem. We asked whether we could have dinner for two people and confirmed the time.
Story time: On the day, we were told to meet at a location which looked like a guest house. Upon arrival at the guest house, we told the person there that we had made a dinner reservation. They said no worries, and pointed at a little girl in a yellow top. "Follow her, she's the daughter of that family and she will show you the way!" So there we went, on a little adventure in the side streets of Samarkand. In the meantime, Oleg was texting the owner and quickly realised there was a misunderstanding. The owner also offers accommodation and thought we wanted a room. We started laughing at the situation and decided to follow the little girl as we were curious whether it was still possible to join for dinner. When we arrived at the dinner location, the door swung open to a courtyard of a house where two ladies were cooking in their outdoor kitchen. We explained the situation and with big smiles on their faces they invited us in and said it was an easy night for them so they'll add some extra meat to the dish, and we could take a seat. Woohoo! We were so relieved and humbled by their hospitality.
Once we sat down the table quickly filled up with a mix of starters and pickled vegetables:
Chalop (cold soup made of sour milk called katyk)
Pentuza salad (rice vermicelli salad)
Lavash (flatbread which was wrapped around a filling and lightly fried)
What makes their place so special is that it's a protected UNESCO heritage site. It is one of the houses in Samarkand which has well preserved Jewish architecture. The ladies were making an Uzbek plov (also called "pilaf"), which is traditionally made with lamb, yellow carrots, onion, rice, spices. Their version was made with beef, garlic, barberries and topped with quail eggs. They also mentioned how they specifically layer their plov in terms of the meat, veggies and rice instead of mixing it all together.
When the plov came out to our table, it was enough to feed 4 people! It was so much food and we felt so bad because by the time we were done it looked like we only had two spoonfuls out of the mountain of food. If you want a memorable food experience, book this. Good to know is that you're probably going to have to ask someone who knows Uzbek or Russian to communicate on Whatsapp for you. Also, if you don't speak those languages you're probably not going to be able to speak much to the hosts. As long as you're not a very fussy eater, you're going to have an amazing evening here!
When we left Uzbekistan, we found out from a guide that it's very common in Samarkand to book an immersive experience where you stay in a local family guest house and then have a home cooked meal. For us, it happened to be serendipity which made it all the more special.
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