If you've never been to Scotland before, your first time there will feel like you're stepping into an ancient fairytale. Numerous movies and series (we know some of you are Harry Potter and Outlander fans!) have been recorded here. There is something about the wild mountain landscape usually cloaked in moody weather, the castles, the medieval and gothic architecture that draws you in. Qiao-An used to study in Edinburgh (the capital) for 5 years and hadn't been back in 10 years. This makes it all the more special to write a blog about it as it's one that's close to the heart.
For as long as she studied there, there were a couple of postcard photos that stuck in her mind. The reflection of Eilean Donan castle on the lake and the fairy pools on the Isle of Skye. It is the largest of the major islands in the inner Hebrides and is located off the west coast of Scotland. There is no need to book a ferry as it's connected by a bridge to the mainland and there are some beautiful sites to see in the area.
Good to know:
Scotland is the northern part of the United Kingdom and occupies about one third of the total land mass. The other parts of the UK are England, Wales and Northern Ireland.
The capital is Edinburgh and Scotland has a population of approx. 5.5 million.
Currency: pound sterling (GBP).
The best period to visit Scotland is generally in the summer (June - August) because the weather tends to be a lot better but that also coincides with peak season. We went during Easter and got very lucky with the weather. Shoulder season is better to beat crowds but not always the best for hiking due to the weather.
Accommodation prices in August are inflated in Edinburgh because of the Fringe Festival which is the world's largest performance arts festival. It is an amazing experience and worth going if you like shows and want to spend some time in Edinburgh.
The best way to get to Isle of Skye is to book a flight to Edinburgh and rent a car. The drive is about 5 hours (365km). To get around Isle of Skye it's also best you have a rental car at your disposal. We paid 345 EUR for 4 days with full insurance.
Midges which are similar to mosquitos and sand flies and are particularly active in the summer. If you're planning to go then, make sure you bring/buy insect repellant.
If you're planning to hike a couple of trails we recommend bringing hiking shoes or trail running shoes. It can be muddy, rocky and slippery depending on whether conditions. Also bring sunscreen and waterproof layers.
Top sites to visit:
Isle of Skye
Eilean Donan Castle
Blà Bheinn (pronounced: Blaven)
Fairy Pools
Sligachan Old Bridge
Old Man of Storr
Portree
Neist Point
Not on Isle of Skye but if you're a Harry Potter fan:
Glenfinnan Viaduct
If you're a James Bond (and hiking) fan and if you have a bit more time:
Glencoe National Nature Reserve
Edinburgh
Calton Hill
Arthur's Seat
Royal Mile & Edinburgh Castle
National Galleries
Victoria Street
George Square
Day 1: Forth Bridge, Eilean Donan Castle, Fairy Pools & Sligachan Old Bridge
We had an early morning flight so decided to stop for coffee before heading to Isle of Skye. A good stop along the way is Manna House Bakery & Patisserie, and also happens to have a great view on the Forth Bridge. The railway cantilever bridge was completed in 1890 and at that time it had the world's longest span at 541m. It is considered the pinnacle of engineering across 3 centuries. This Scottish landmark is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Both of us being engineers, we could really appreciate the design and structure.
Eilean Donan Castle
The castle is located on its own little island at the point where 3 sea lochs meet. A sea loch is a tidal inlet of the sea also known as a fjord, estuary, bay. It was first inhabited in 634AD by a bishop. The first castle was built on the island in the 13th century. It was destroyed in 1719 and lay in ruins until it was rebuilt 200 years later, which was also when the bridge connecting it to the mainland was constructed. Good to know before visiting the castle is that depending on the tides, the scenery will be very different. The classic postcard view is at high tide when the island is completely surrounded by water. When we arrived it was low tide and it was mostly surrounded by seaweed. It was a bit underwhelming and especially when you have a certain image in your head it may leave you disappointed. Not to worry, just come back on a different day/time and try your luck again. It is absolutely worth seeing it!
Fairy Pools
As our accommodation wasn't too far away from the Fairy Pools, we decided to visit it just before sunset. Since this is a very popular site, it's a nice time to go because most people will be heading back around this time and there will be plenty of parking. However, if you want to take a dip in the pools (this is allowed) you may want to go earlier in the day. There is a pretty straightforward trail you can follow on AllTrails (4.2km out-and-back). If you want to see the iconic picture of the pools, you'll have to climb down and it's not really indicated where so we missed going to the viewpoint. We have a picture from the trail and you can actually see it's not as grand as the pictures make it out to be. There are plenty of spots along the trail where you can climb down to get beautiful photos with the pools and small waterfalls. It is worth the visit but not our ultimate highlight of the trip.
On your way to the Fairy Pools you will pass by the Sligachan Bridge. The backdrop of the mountains make for a stunning view and if that isn't reason enough to stop, there is an old tale that says that the waters below the bridge will give you eternal beauty. You have to submerge your face into the water, rather than bringing the water to your face and you're not meant to wipe it off but let it naturally dry.
Day 2: Old Man of Storr, Portree & Neist Point
One of the absolute must-do hikes on Skye is Old Man of Storr. One of the ancient tales says that giants used to roam Isle of Skye. They believe that the Old Man of Storr is the thumb of a giant sticking out of the Earth when he was laid to rest after his death. The geological explanation for this rock formation is that it is the result of volcanic activity. A volcanic neck or plug is formed when magma cools within a vent of an active volcano. Whichever you choose to believe, it is a 55 meter high pinnacle made of basalt rock and a landmark worth seeing. The circular hike is 5.5 km and one of the more popular ones, so we would recommend starting on the earlier side. Follow the trail on AllTrails as we saw a lot of people climbing unnecessarily down steep routes.
Portree
After that head to Portree for a coffee/food break and find the coloured houses viewpoint. It's a lovely town to visit and tourists also tend to stay here. Since Isle of Skye has such a gorgeoys landscape we decided to stay somewhere a bit more remote but if you want the convenience of walking into a town this is a great base with lots of restaurant options.
Neist Point
Neist Point lighthouse is located on the west coast of Skye and is yet another postcard view. The basalt rock cliffs with the lighthouse perched on top of it is such a stunning scene. The Neist Point trail starts at Neist point car park viewpoint. There isn't a lot of parking so either arrive early or be prepared to wait around a bit for someone to leave. The trail is 2.7 km one way but we don't necessarily recommend walking all the way to the lighthouse unless you want to see it up close. The best view is actually part way down the trail (put these coordinates in Google maps: 57.428370, -6.783195). We got lucky with another gorgeous blue sky day and it's hard to believe that these pictures are taken in Scotland in March.
Day 3: Blà Bheinn & Glenfinnan Viaduct
We were recommended by locals to hike up Blà Bheinn but because we only had a long weekend in Scotland and had to head back to Edinburgh we only went part way up to enjoy the mountain trail. Another summit to add to our bucketlist!
Qiao-An used to be quite the Harry Potter fan, so we couldn't head back to Edinburgh without a small detour past the Glenfinnan Viaduct. It was Easter Sunday so no steam trains were running but we still got to spot a normal train on the viaduct. If you want to be sure about seeing a steam train it's best to check the schedule up front. The parking area is huge and there are parking attendants who will help you find a spot. From there it's a short walk to the viewpoint. It can be a bit muddy so don't wear shoes you're feeling particularly precious about.
Day 4: Edinburgh
This was a day of walking down memory lane for Qiao-An. We based ourselves out of a hotel in Grassmarket because of it's convenient and central location. It's always bustling as there are a lot of restaurants and pubs in the area. It also has a great view on Edinburgh castle. Edinburgh is a great city to explore, especially if you're a fan of medieval and gothic architecture. There is a rich and quite dark history best heard through one of the countless tours the city offers. From North Bridge you can see how the city has different layers (literally). For the Harry Potter fans out there, J.K. Rowling had her first book published while writing in the Elephant House, a café in Edinburgh.
Calton Hill or Arthur's Seat
If you're short on time, choose to walk up either Calton Hill or Arthur's Seat to see Edinburgh from a higher vantage point. Calton Hill is more central so depending on where you stay it might be the better option. It's an easier walk to the top and there are a couple of interesting sites to see such as an observatory and various monuments. One of the most famous monuments is the National Monument of Scotland. If you look it up and are surprised to see it looks rather Greek then you're not mistaking. It was meant to be a replica of the Panthenon in Athens. It's a tribute to the fallen soldiers of the Napoleonic wars. Due to funding issues it was never finished. If you would like to be more surrounded by nature, Arthur's seat is the better choice. It's 251 metres and a fairly easy hike. It's best to wear comfortable shoes but you don't need hiking boots.
National Galleries
What's awesome about the national galleries is that it's a place where you can see beautiful (and famous) international and Scottish artwork for free. The area also has a view on North Bridge, Scott monument and the Mound. It's also located right by Princes Street Gardens where there is another great view on Edinburgh Castle.
Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle & Victoria Street
After that head to Royal Mile and you may be lucky enough to hear someone playing the bagpipes. It's quite a touristy area so if you're looking for souvenirs it's a good place to browse around. If you follow the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle you will pass by St. Giles cathedral. Victoria Street is a cobblestone street dotted with shops and restaurants with colourful facades. If you look up you'll see a balcony all along the street which you access via stairs that will connect to the Royal Mile.
George Square
Part of the University of Edinburgh campus is located in George Square. A couple of buildings that are worth seeing in the area are Teviot Row House and McEwan Hall. McEwan Hall is the ceremonial hall for graduations and it's absolutely stunning on the inside. Teviot is currently under renovation and it's a student union but normally when it's not under construction it's open to the public during the day.
Where to stay:
Isle of Skye
Lodestar Cottage, South Skye (192 EUR/night) - The price is for a 2 bedroom place, initially we were going to travel with a friend and needed a slightly bigger place but in the end this was still a wonderful place for two people. We wanted a cottage surrounded by nature and that is exactly what this is, if you want to be able to walk to a nearby restaurant this isn't the place for you but if you want to feel secluded and go stargazing at night this is where it's at! It's also close to the Skye bridge so if you're arriving later in the day it's nice you don't have to drive that far into Isle of Skye. Supermarkets, cafés and restaurants are about a 10 minute drive away. The cottage has all the amenities to make you feel at home!
Edinburgh
Apex City of Edinburgh Hotel (136 EUR/night) - A clean and comfortable hotel located in Old Town Edinburgh. If it's your first time in the city, it's a good area to base yourself from as it's walking distance from pretty much all the sites. Easy to travel to from the airport by either tram or bus. The area is also known for having lots of restaurants, pubs and a lovely view on Edinburgh castle.
For the foodies:
Breakfast/coffee
Deli Gasta - Broadford, Isle of Skye (this place looked amazing for breakfast, we just had the coffee and scones to go which were both great options. The scones came with takeaway portions of jam and clotted cream, which makes it perfect to transport to your picnic location of choice)
Birch Cafe - Portree, Isle of Skye (we only tried the coffee but the food and snacks looked amazing. A great stop if you've been out and about for a while and need a pick me up)
Manna House Bakery & Patisserie - South Queensferry (a great bakery with a view on the Forth Bridge. We grabbed coffee, pastries and sandwiches to go and they were all delicious)
Söderberg The Meadows - Edinburgh (a Swedish style bakery and café which has been around for many years. Back when Qiao-An studied here it used to be called Peter's Yard but the interior hasn't changed a bit. The baked goods and coffee are still just as good as she remembered)
Local recommendation:
Lean to Coffee - Skye Cafe (this place looks so cool but sadly was still closed when we visited)
Lunch/snacks
Café Cùil - Carbost, Isle of Skye (cùil pronounced: "cool" is the Scottish Gaelic word for corner, nook or cranny. Even though this café is really spacious, it does give you a cozy vibe when you're sitting inside with a hot cup of coffee watching the scenery through their huge windows. You won't be able to miss it because they have a bright red roof. They serve wonderfully creative brunch food showcasing local produce. It's a popular spot, so be prepared to queue!)
The Edinburgh Larder - Edinburgh (an amazing brunch spot where they serve local dishes but in a slightly more refined manner making it not your typical Scottish or English brekkie but still the same generous portion size. We had the Full Scottish and Taste of Scotland plate and highly recommend trying these)
Dinner
The Shores Plockton - Plockton (a lovely seafood restaurant, located on the Scottish mainland near to Isle of Skye. We would recommend making a reservation in advance. Try their langoustines and mussels, they were amazing)
Kyloe - Edinburgh (a wonderful Scottish steak restaurant located in the Rutland hotel. If you're around for Sunday Roast, consider booking a table here to try it. We weren't able to try it but it looked delicious. One of the fun things you get to do apart from being able to choose from a large variety of cuts of steak, you get to pick your very own steak knife)
Comments