Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal and an archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean. Often referred to as the Hawai'i of Europe because of the rugged mountain landscape and waterfalls. Also nicknamed the flower island as its subtropical climate is the perfect environment for blossoms to thrive. We have seen it become increasingly more popular because of the iconic hike which goes along a narrow ridge ("stairway to heaven") which has been shared all over social media. There are more than 500 hiking trails to choose from so we knew we had to come explore it ourselves and share with you whether the hype is real! It has been a well known destination among British and Germans for a while and this is why Qiao-An had already gone on a family vacation 20+ years ago when they still lived in the UK. Needless to say, she did not remember that much from the visit and it was time to go back.
What's great about travelling to Madeira from Europe is that there are low-cost airlines that travel there making it more accessible to everyone. If you can't fly direct, there are EasyJet flights from Lisbon to Funchal for less than 50 EUR per person (return flight) in the low season. This is also a great excuse to do a stopover in Lisbon which can't be missed on a trip to Portugal.
Good to know:
Official language: Portuguese. English is widely spoken, you will find that menu's in restaurants are also translated in English (and other languages).
The capital is Funchal and Madeira has a population of approx. 254,000.
Currency: Euro's (EUR).
The best way to explore Madeira is by car, make sure you book yourself a rental car.
Peak season is the summer period (June - September) as that's also when the flowers will be at their best.
Pack lots of layers and be prepared for wind and rain.
Hiking is a must! AllTrails has 561 hiking trails and just to give you an idea, the furthest length of Madeira is 57km and its widest point is 22km. You can drive the entire length of the coastline in about 2 hours (145km in total). This relatively small island is packed with adventure and gorgeous views.
If you have a car, it doesn't matter where you stay because everything is a fairly short drive away. If you don't have a car we recommend that you stay in Funchal.
Top sites to visit:
Miradouro do Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz
Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo (PR1)
Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço Hike (PR8)
Vereda do Larano
Ribeira da Janela
Miradouro do Guindaste
Miradouro de São Cristovão
Ponta do Sol
Fanal
Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima & Serra de Água
Recommend by locals:
Levada do Caldeirão Verde Hike (PR9) - we were told it was one of the best levadas to do on the island. It's very green, there is a beautiful waterfall and it's a relatively flat hike. Especially compared to PR1.
Skip:
Waterfall of the Angels
Since we were only 5 days in Madeira we had to make the difficult decision of only choosing 2 hikes as we also wanted to relax during our holiday. I know, hard to believe coming from us but we have learned from our mountaineering adventures that balance is important! Typically the day after a hike we treat ourselves to a rest day where we go to a spa or hang out at the beach.
The hikes you'll find on Madeira are often called vereda meaning "path" or levada coming from the Portuguese verb levar meaning "to carry". The levadas of Madeira are a system of irrigation channels or aqueducts to carry water across the island for human consumption, agricultural purposes and for hydroelectric energy. Some of these channels date back to the 15th century!
Day 1: A full roundtrip of the island
If you don't want to jump straight into a hike, we recommend starting off with a relatively easy day of exploring the island. There are beaches, viewpoints and cute towns dotted all along the coastline.
Miradouro do Guindaste & Miradouro de São Cristovão
Miradouro do Guindaste has an observation deck which will take you over the edge of the cliff and you can look straight into the ocean. However, there is also a ridge you can walk along at this viewpoint which is very picturesque! You can't miss it when you get to the parking lot, normally a bunch of people will be taking pictures here. Miradouro de São Cristovão is another beautiful viewpoint, it has a café there too so you can have a coffee or lunch with a view.
Praia Da Ribeira Da Janela & Fanal
Head over to the pebble beach of Ribeira Da Janela to see the impressive rock formations that rise from the ocean just a few metres from the coast. At the top of one of these rock islets is an opening that resembles a window which was significant enough to name the river and parish after it (Portuguese word: janela). This spot can be a bit windy but on a calm day it would be the perfect place for a picnic.
After Ribeira da Janela, it's only a 12 minute drive to Fanal. It is a laurel tree forest and what's unique about it is that often it is covered in a blanket of fog which adds a bit of fairytale mystery to the area. It is one of the last laurel forests in the world and Madeira also uses these fragrant branches in their cuisine (more on this later).
Porto Moniz & Miradouro do Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz
Stop by Porto Moniz to take a dip in the natural swimming pools. There is an entrance fee (3 EUR) and there are changing facilities. Unfortunately the place was closed during our visit probably due to weather/high waves.
We stumbled upon this place per chance and that's usually a good sign. This viewpoint is a great place to see how steep some of the cliffs can be in Madeira and from here you will also be able to see the village of Fajã da Quebrada Nova. There is a cable car that connects the village and this was built to transport food and farmers to the area as it was used for livestock and agriculture. Today, the cable car transports tourists to this unique area and it is the steepest cable car in Europe. A roundtrip costs 5 EUR per person and just make sure you check the opening times online prior to going.
Ponta do Sol & Waterfall of Angels
This picturesque town is on the southwestern coast of Madeira and has a pebble beach. Check out the bridge called Cais da Ponta do Sol. If you cross the bridge you will have a great view on Ponta do Sol and on the fishermen who will undoubtedly be in the area.
You will see a lot of cars parked in this area because of the Waterfall of Angels or "Cascata dos Anjos". The old road (ER101) is closed to non-residents but to be honest, nobody checks whether you are local or not so if you want to you can also pass through by car. We decided to abide by the rules because it's a pretty scenic walk and only about 1.5km. This point of interest has become popular because it is a waterfall that pours onto the road from the side of a cliff. The waterfall is not that big and because everyone is queueing up for the photo, the whole experience is just really underwhelming. Trust us, we've queued up for photos before but this one is 100% not worth it. The walk to the waterfall is lovely and if you go for sunset you won't be disappointed!
Day 2: Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo (PR1)
If you're going to do one hike in Madeira and you're up for a bit of an adventure, this is the trail for you. For those who don't want to read our full review, below are our top tips for the best experience on the trail.
Good to know:
The distance is about 12km round trip which means you need to bring plenty of water, snacks (we brought lunch) and sunscreen.
There is a total elevation gain of 1313m. There are quite some steep ascents and descents on this trail.
Start early, we started 1 hour before sunrise. It is the most popular hike on Madeira and there will still be people on the trail but a much more enjoyable experience than later in the day. Sunset timing also is a good time to go for less crowds.
Most people will hang around the first lookout point (miradouro do Juncal) and "the stairway to heaven", so don't be discouraged when you see a mass of people.
There is a lookout point just past the parking lot marked as "La meraviglia", it is a bit more hidden and we were told by a local that this is the best spot for the sunrise.
Bring layers, it can be quite cold before the sun comes up and the weather is changeable so pack at least a layer that is water and windproof. When we drove to the parking lot in the morning the temperature dropped almost 10C compared to when we were in the city (this is also due to the elevation).
Be opportunistic! If the skies look clear in the morning, it's the day to go for this hike. If it's raining or extremely overcast, do another hike.
Park your car at the parking lot called "parque de Pico do Areeiro", it's about 1km from the starting point of the trail and very convenient. If you decide to park right by the cafe there is a maximum parking time of 1 hour and we've read reviews that the police does check. It also gets so busy there that we've seen people being double parked. We wouldn't risk it!
If you're not used to hiking long distances, you don't have to go all the way to Pico Ruivo but we do recommend it for those who are comfortable hiking.
Bring a headlamp/pocket flashlight or be prepared to use your phone, there will be dark tunnels that have been carved into the mountains that you'll have to pass through.
Wear proper hiking shoes or sturdy shoes that have some water resistance, especially the tunnels can be a bit flooded with water and you don't want to walk 12km in wet shoes.
The trail is paved pretty well and they built proper stairs, so no scrambling needed.
There are toilet facilities at the start of the trail but if you start before sunrise they won't be open yet. The next toilet facilities are right before the final ascent to Pico Ruivo.
The sunrise colours are spectacular, so if you're not an early bird you've got to suck it up and just wake up early for this one hike. We started 1 hour before sunrise and the changing colours is 90% of what makes the scenery and pictures so good. The mountains will look like they're on fire!
If you're not much of a hiker but desperate to see the "stairway to heaven" it's in the beginning of the trail so it will probably only take you about 20 minutes to get to that section and you can walk back. The route feels very safe because along every ridge, there's fences and rails to hold onto. The tunnels we had to pass through every now and then were fun and added a bit to the adventure. It's really rewarding to walk all the way to Pico Ruivo because not everyone does it and you'll be above the clouds which means if you're lucky you'll look over a sea of clouds at the viewpoint. It's the perfect place for a picnic!
Cons:
For those who are used to hiking and scrambling a bit more off the beaten track, this is not for you. The route is clearly marked and you can't really go off track unless you climb over the fence.
The most popular hike on Madeira = packed with tourists
The narrow ridges don't look nearly as epic as on a drone and even then, there's still fences everywhere.
It isn't a loop so you have to walk the exact same route back.
Is it worth the hype?
Yes, you have to do this hike if you're visiting Madeira. The views during sunrise and from Pico Ruivo are epic! However, it's not in our top 3 of Europe. There are way more beautiful and fun hikes to do without all the crowds and fences. Interested to know more? You can always send an enquiry on Instagram or via our "work with us" contact form and we'll be happy to help curate an amazing itinerary for you.
Day 3: Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço Hike (PR8)
This trail will take you along the eastern peninsula of Madeira also nicknamed the "dragon's tail". It's takes you along orange volcanic rock formations that drop off into the ocean. It is one of the most popular coastline hikes and for good reason! There are numerous viewpoints along the way and in comparison to PR1, it is a much easier (and shorter) hike.
Good to know:
The distance is about 7km and part of the way is a loop so you don't have to walk back the exact same route.
It is a popular sunrise hike, so aim to start 1 hour before sunrise.
There is a big parking lot right be the start of the trail, for foreigners a donation of 1 EUR is required. There are QR codes in the parking lot but the WiFi as well as mobile data is terrible in the area, we didn't actually manage to pay.
It is quite an exposed hike and it can be very windy, we would recommend bringing at least a windbreaker with you. If you plan to hike later in the day also bring sunscreen.
Pack enough snacks and water, although there is a café with bathrooms available. The only downside is it doesn't open until 10:00 and if you're doing the hike for sunrise you'll most likely find it closed.
Most of the trail is well paved but the last stretch to the viewpoint is a bit steep and the stairs aren't in great condition so we would recommend for this part to wear sturdy shoes.
Whale watching is popular in Madeira and this is one of the areas to do it.
We started an hour before sunrise and because it was a relatively cloudy day we didn't see much of the sunrise colours. The hike was a lot easier than PR1 because there isn't as much elevation gain. Just like PR1, the exposed ridges are all fenced on both sides. When we got to the Miradouro Ponta do Furado you could see the lighthouse in the distance and the sun breaking through the clouds every now and then casting a spotlight onto the ocean. It was moody but stunning at the same time. We walked down a bit further, we wouldn't necessarily recommend it because it's quite slippery and steep but the view onto the remainder of the dragon's tail was epic. Nobody else did it so we had the whole place to ourselves.
Day 4: Paragliding, Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima chapel & Serra de Água
Have you ever gone paragliding before? If you've never done it, we can recommend booking this activity in Madeira! It is a bit weather dependent so try not to book it for the last day of your trip and be prepared to be flexible around timing. We went tandem paragliding in Madalena do Mar which is a popular spot on the island for this activity. There are lots of paragliders that offer paragliding in Madeira, we went with a company called I Can Fly in Madeira.
There is no reason to be nervous because the paraglider pilots will brief you on what to do and what not to do, and the good news is your job is relatively easy! You will get a helmet and a seat attached to you and all you've got to do is run when they tell you to run down the slope and it will somewhat feel like you're launching yourself off of a cliff. The wing will inflate with air and it will feel like you're being lifted off the ground like a feather. It's peaceful and relaxing once you're in the air. The flight time is about 15-20 minutes.
Good to know:
Total activity time: 1-2 hours depending on how long the briefing takes and weather conditions.
The paragliders will inform you of the meeting point 1 day in advance.
Bookings for paragliding can easily be made via Whatsapp.
Wear comfortable clothing, shoes, sunglasses and don't forget your sunscreen.
Weight range of passengers: 25kg - 85kg.
Prices can range from 120-150 EUR per person.
Most companies will provide a GoPro but it is a good idea to bring your own if you have a newer generation GoPro.
After this head over to Serra de Água which is a village in the middle of a valley surrounded by terraced fields. There are a couple of viewpoints along the way and make sure to stop by Nossa Senhora de Fátima chapel. It is perched on top of a hill and has a gorgeous view on the valley as well as the ocean.
Day 5: Vereda do Larano
This is a beautiful coastal hike which we only did part of the way because the weather was a bit moody. We opted for this trail because it came recommended by locals. The route is well maintained and there are plenty of spots where you can admire Madeira's iconic steep cliffs dropping off into the ocean.
Total length of the trail (Vereda do Larano - Boca do Risco) is around 9.2km out and back and the average time to complete is is 4,5 hours. It is not a circular trail and you can always turn around if on that day you don't have enough time or distance is too much for you. We loved how green the area was and we can imagine in the summer it will be full of beautiful flowers.
Where to stay:
Madeira is a relatively small island and it doesn't take long to drive from one end to the other so you could really base yourself anywhere you'd like. A couple of days in Funchal is a good idea because it's the capital, close to the airport and great to base yourself from if you are planning to do the PR1 hike. We also wanted to base ourselves from another place so we chose Machico because it's close to the PR8 hike.
Funchal
Living Funchal iNN (100 EUR/night) - Located right in the city centre of Funchal and has its own private parking area. Parking does cost an extra 10 EUR/day and driving through the entrance is a bit tight but once you're in, the place is huge and convenient. This accommodation is a serviced apartment, they have contactless check-in, a kitchen with basic condiments, and a washing machine. What was also notable was that it was extremely clean and they have an elevator for those who are less mobile.
Machico
Modern & Recycled Guest House (80 EUR/night) - Located in what looks like a shopping mall from the outside, and close to the waterfront. This place had a very welcoming host called Ruben who will be more than happy to tell you everything Machico and Madeira has to offer. Hiking, food, adventurous activities, he has all the tips. There is a communal kitchen, you will have space in the fridge and a cupboard with cutlery and crockery at your disposal. Some nights he also offers a home cooked meal (by his mother) at a fair price. At this place, you will need to be able to go up a flight of stairs.
For the foodies:
Unfortunately, we both got food poisoning while we were a couple of days in Lisbon just before going to Madeira. This means we didn't go out for food as much as we'd hoped but we still have some wonderful places to share with you!
Lunch/snacks
Cabo Aéreo Café Restaurant - Sao Jorge (for the espetadas which are beef chunks skewered on fresh bay leaf branches and grilled on an open fire. The flavour and smell are delicious and the view is one of the best on the island). Open from 10:00 already but they don't serve the lunch menu until 12:00. You can also try the prego especial or prego in bolo do caco. The bolo do caco is a Madeiran type of flatbread usually served with garlic butter. The prego especial served in this bread basically is Madeira's version of a steak sandwich. They add cheese, egg, ham, cheese, lettuce and tomato)
Restaurante PARAÍSO "ACHADAS DA CRUZ" - Achadas da Cruz (for the prego especial in a very simple café. We would not recommend going out of your way to eat here but it's close to Miradouro do Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz so if your're in the area it's a good lunch stop)
Mercearia Amanhecer - Seixal (many places in Madeira have a shop and café combined. We liked this stop for a quick coffee and you can sit on their balcony and peak over at the ocean. It's also the place we found out that a cappuccino in Madeira gets served with whipped cream...if that sounds a bit too Starbucks for you it's best to order another type of coffee)
Dinner
Frango da Guia Madeira/Lareira Portuguesa - Funchal (this place serves seafood and grilled meat. We went for the Portuguese piri piri grilled chicken. They're wonderfully tangy because of the lemon and the spices give a fiery kick)
MaréAlta - Peixe & Mariscos - Machico (this was one of the first evenings we were going to be brave and have some seafood post food poisoning in Lisbon. We were reassured by our host in Machico that this place has the freshest seafood, the owner also sells their fish at the local market. We loved the place so much, that we went two nights in a row. We loved that the restaurant was right by the water, and if you order a wine by the glass they'll pour you one the sized of your head)
Lily's Restaurant - Machico (this also came highly recommended by our host and it's open for lunch and dinner. It's a bit more at an elevation so has a beautiful view on the surrounding mountains and ocean. The service was stellar and if they're not too busy, they may give you some local hiking tips)
Drinks
The Chupa - Groceries - Machico (even though Taberna da Poncha has over 5K reviews on Google and is claimed to be the place to try poncha, our host in Machico said that The Chupa is much more local and they also make it the traditional way with a wooden muddler. It is an alcoholic drink which contains "aguardente de cana", a type of sugarcane rum made in Madeira. This is then mixed with honey and lemon for the traditional version but also mixed with other fruit juices such as orange juice or passion fruit)
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