Picture this: snow capped mountains surrounded by desert steppes, alpine lakes, yurts and horses. This country blew us away in so many ways, their hospitality, their culture and their landscape. Before visiting Kyrgyzstan, we wouldn't have been able to tell you what we were expecting. Little did we know that after Antarctica, one of our most memorable moments would also be made here when we got to admire a 7 kg (15 lbs) female golden eagle in the steppes of Kyrgyzstan.
The only things we had booked before arriving to Kyrgyzstan was our accommodation in Bishkek and a yurt in Issyk Kul. How we were going to get from one place to the other was not as easy to arrange with the resources available online. Figuring this out whilst we were in Kyrgyzstan was a journey in itself and we're happy to share with you our valuable lessons to make your life a little easier when you visit!
Good to know:
Official language: Kyrgyz and Russian, though Kyrgyz is the main language spoken. English is not widely spoken, however we did find that people understood English a lot more than in some of the other "Stan" countries. People working in the tourism industry in Bishkek generally do speak English, in the Issyk Kul area it becomes more challenging.
Currency: Kyrgystani Som (KGS).
They accept foreign credit cards however it is advised to have cash on you. The hotels and restaurants we went to took credit card but smaller local supermarkets typically will only take cash. We noticed that in Bishkek, taxi drivers did not carry a lot of change on them because they make use of an app where they can transfer money to each other easily (doesn't work for foreigners). Make sure you have smaller notes on you and otherwise be prepared to round your fare up.
Kyrgyzstan has a population of 67.7 million people and Bishkek is the capital.
Kyrgyzstan currently gives visa exemption to citizens of 69 nations and in our case that allowed us to stay in the country for maximum of 60 days.
Dress code: 90% of the population is Muslim, so we would advise to dress modestly especially in the countryside. We found that in Bishkek people dressed quite casual and we believe there it doesn't matter as much what you wear.
Good to know about taxi's:
Taxi's are cheap in Kyrgyzstan, if you can't figure out our instructions below to order a taxi just flag one on the street and be prepared to negotiate with them.
Uber is not available. The alternative to it is Yandex Taxi or Yandex Go, however this is not available in the Apple Store anymore as an app.
To use Yandex Taxi, you can use the web browser. You will need to insert a local mobile number so in order to use this option, you will need to get a sim card (can be done at the airport and costs anywhere between 5-10 euros depending on what data package you want).
To order a taxi, you insert the address or location of where you are now and where you need to go and select taxi type, once this is done the rest is similar to Uber.
Monitor when the taxi arrives through the website browser and please note that you can only pay cash (amount will be clearly indicated).
If you get stuck with the web browser, and would really like to know how to use it, please feel free to reach out through the contact form on the "work with us" section.
Day 1-2 Bishkek and Ala-Archa National Park
If you've been following our blog for a while, you know we started our Central Asian adventure in Uzbekistan. Prior to visiting Central Asia, it almost seemed impossible to remember the names of the different cities and the currencies because it just wasn't really a part of the world we ever explored. One of the similarities that we noticed throughout all the capital cities was that there is a lot of Soviet style architecture. Bishkek has numerous Soviet era buildings and statues.
Bishkek
One day is more than enough to wander around Bishkek's city centre and an additional day can be used to go hiking in Ala-Archa National Park which is located approx. 30km to the south of Bishkek. Oak Park is one of the oldest parks in Bishkek and apart from the oak trees, it has 90 sculptures dotted around the place. After that you can pass by the Lenin statue, the state history museum and Ala-Too square. Then stroll through Panfilov park, which is shaped like a star and attracts many younger visitors and families because it has a small amusement park inside of it.
Every city also typically has its own bazaar but we noticed that once you've seen one they all become a bit similar. If Kyrgyzstan is the first country you're visiting in Central Asia, you should visit Osh Bazaar in Bishkek.
Ala-Archa National Park
In Kyrgyz, Ala means multicoloured and Archa is a type of juniper tree which is what the national park is named after. It is an alpine national park covering over 200 square kilometres in the Tian Shan mountain range.
There are numerous hiking routes you can choose from but one of the most popular routes for a day trip are with a view on the Ala Archa gorge and the Ala Archa river which also flows through Bishkek.
It takes about 4 km and at some point towards the last kilometre or so the path splits off into two, where one brings you to the waterfall and the other a bit higher up a mountain where you can proceed to do a longer hike. As the waterfall wasn't flowing a lot we decided to go up the mountain to find a good spot for lunch and look out over the gorge. We saw squirrels and a lot of marmots along the way, so make sure you keep your eyes peeled for some wildlife.
Good to know before you go to Ala-Archa National Park:
There is a gate to Ala-Archa National Park where you need to pay an entrance fee for your vehicle.
We did not find toilet facilities along the way so make sure you plan your bathroom breaks accordingly.
There are trash cans in some places along the route
Bring plenty of water and snacks, there is a possibility to buy some things around the parking lot area depending on what time you arrive.
We arranged a return transfer through the hotel we stayed at which was 2500 Som (approximately 25 EUR). What was convenient about arranging it this way was that we knew for sure that we had transportation back to Bishkek.
Top sites to visit:
Ala-Archa National Park
Oak Park
Panfilov Park
Ala-Too Square
How to get around:
Taxi
Walk
Private transfer/car
Where to stay:
Lavitor hotel - We can't recommend this place enough! The hotel rooms are equipped with everything you need and the price/quality is great. The rooms are simple and clean, freshly cooked breakfast is included in the price which is served as room service. Tea, coffee and a fridge are available in the hallway. It is a little further from the city centre, so we would recommend using Yandex taxi to get into town. If you want to walk out your accommodation and be right in the city centre this is not the place to select. What we loved about this place was that the hotel staff and manager were really friendly, and were able to help us arrange everything for exploring Kyrgyzstan. They even offer fully guided tours themselves.
For the foodies:
Breakfast/coffee
Sierra coffee (for good coffee and lunch options, they also had WiFi).
Dinner
Navat Teahouse (a wonderfully over the top decorated teahouse which had a very extensive menu. We had the borsook which are little balls of fried dough served with sour cream, fried and steamed manti which are a type of dumplings. We also tried some dishes that seemed to have Asian influences such as the Laghman noodle dish).
Arzu Restaurant (similar to Navat, it's also a restaurant that serves local cuisine. We had the steamed manti and shashlik here).
Day 3-4 Issyk Kul and Canyon Skazka (Fairytale Canyon)
We were trying to arrange a rental car through our hotel but on the day we wanted to head out to Issyk Kul it wasn't possible because the car needed to be serviced. After trying to reach out to multiple car rental agencies and looking at transfer options, we decided to book a transfer with our hotel manager. He offered to drive us to Issyk Kul and back for 11000 Som (50 EUR). We couldn't find any rental car agencies that took foreign cards which meant that the only option was cash and having to put down a large cash deposit. Seeing as we also didn't want to deal with having all this cash on one of our last days in Bishkek we decided this wasn't a suitable option for us.
The second most exciting experience in Kyrgyzstan was when we stopped of at Kafe Chay Mamy which is a café just off the road between Bishkek and Issyk Kul. They serve kattama and milk tea which is a traditional snack. It looks like a flat bread with a crunchy exterior and a flaky buttery interior reminiscent of a croissant. We had it with milk tea and it was delicious! This dish caught the attention of the world because a Kyrgyz granny who is the master of making kattama was invited to Abu Dhabi by a sheikh to teach how to cook this delicacy. When you get there make sure you pick the one called Chay Mamy, as its popularity has caused many restaurants to open along side this one.
Once we arrived to our yurt camp by Issyk Kul lake, it became apparent how remote this place felt. The view to the mountain ranges and lake is unobstructed and there is a feeling of vastness when you look out onto the rugged landscape. It's remarkable that just a 4 hour drive away from Bishkek you can reach an area that feels so isolated. Check-in was quite casual at our yurt camp, after being shown our yurt we gratefully accepted an electric heater, put on some extra warm layers and set off to explore the area. When we walked up a hill to get a better vantage point, one of the first things that we noticed was just how quiet the place was. There was hardly any cellphone reach and we never got the WiFi password from our camp. It was two days of being disconnected from the digital world and it was actually very peaceful and relaxing.
Good to know about Issyk Kul:
It is the seventh-deepest lake, tenth-largest lake and second-largest saline lake (after the Caspian Sea) in the world!
Due to the high salinity of the lake, it doesn't freeze and this explains its name because Issyk Kul means "warm lake" in Kyrgyz. Some parts do freeze in the winter and it's still an alpine lake so it by no means is a really warm lake, don't be fooled!
Issyk Kul receives about 84.87 millimeters (3.34 inches) of precipitation and has 176.54 rainy days (48.37% of the time) annually. So bring appropriate clothes with this in mind.
There is a lot of construction happening on the roads in the South of the lake, locals find it quite easy to drive there with a normal car but we would recommend a car with high road clearance and to be prepared to come back with a very dirty car.
The roads in the Northern part of Issyk Kul are better developed.
Distances are bigger than you think so plan more time here if you want to explore the area by car.
Arranging transfers to local sites via your yurt camp can be quite expensive, we would recommend arranging a car rental up front. At our yurt camp we saw some Toyota Land Cruisers parked from Asia Expeditions.
If you're not staying near a town like Karakol, you're most likely going to have food at your accommodation. Make sure you bring some snacks too, the food was plentiful but just not that amazing at our yurt camp.
Horse riding was 1000 Som (10 EUR) per horse and guide will cost you around 2500 Som (25 EUR) for 3 hours.
Watching an eagle hunting show was 5000 Som (50 EUR).
Return transfer to Skazka Canyon from yurt camp was 2000 Som (20 EUR).
We have shared some extra tips because we were told by locals that they're worth visiting, however we didn't have our own car and transfers through our yurt camp were pricey (because of the distances) so we opted only to go to Skazka Canyon. In case it wasn't clear already, we would REALLY recommend coming with your own car because our transfer was quite the experience. On the way to Issyk Kul, you may notice cars pulled off the side of the road, they are a particular model and they have a specific function. They're Volkswagen Passat cars from the 90s and they have big tanks. They drive them over the border to Kazakhstan and fuel them up as fuel is cheaper there. Then they drive back to Kyrgyzstan and sell it to drivers there. Our driver for the day was driving one of these cars and apart from one of the doors not working very well and the car having a permanent smell of fuel, he also used a little stick to prop up the parking brake. The driver also happened to be a family member of the yurt camp's owner and hardly spoke Russian and definitely no English.
Skazka Canyon is located in a gorge and is famous for its red clay rock formations. The colour of the canyon is red but with stripes of yellow and orange and creates a magical scenery. "Skazka" means fairytale and we understand why. The locals say that the formations resemble castles, towers, animals and people. One of them is even named after the Chinese Wall! Normally, when you arrive to the canyon there is a gate (a small barrier which looks like it functions manually) and you pay a small fee to enter the canyon but on the day we arrived it was raining and no one happened to be on duty. Because of the rain, the canyon was completely deserted. We had the entire place to ourselves and you're allowed to walk and explore everywhere! When you go to frequently visited places, you're often faced with a lot of erosion and places will put up barriers (understandably). So definitely visit this place before they decide that these measures will be necessary. The only downside of rain is that the clay turns into this quick sand consistency and either you will slip and slide a lot or sink into the clay mess. Be prepared to come dressed in hiking shoes, a rain jacket and some wet wipes. We were cracking up as each of us took a couple of big slips and ended up with mud all over ourselves. But have a look at the photos below and tell us it wasn't worth it! If you'd like to see one of our bloopers in the canyon, check out our Instagram story highlights of Kyrgyzstan. You have to appreciate what Oleg will do for the shot!
The food and transfer service of the yurt camp may have been very basic but they arranged for us to see an eagle hunting show and that was the highlight of our trip!
Golden eagles are called berkut and eagle hunters berkutchi. Eagle hunting is a nomadic tradition passed on from generation to generation. It was fundamental in getting food and fur during the winter months. Nowadays, it isn't essential for survival anymore but there are still some hunters that keep the practice alive. It has evolved into a traditional sport and has a big social significance. This tradition is still being practised in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Mongolia. The berkut we got to meet was called "White Tail", we don't remember her name in Kyrgyz. She is 3 years old and her wing span is already 2 metres. Generally females are a bit bigger than males and she weighed 7kg. Eagles get released into the wild when they're 20 years old and life expectancy can be up to 50 years old.
The bond between a berkut and berkutchi is very special. There are some aspects that feel a bit conflicted as catching a berkut seems somewhat cruel. They either need to take the egg from a nest which is dangerous as an adult berkut could easily kill a human, so if the mother comes back while you're anywhere near the nest you're in big trouble. Another way is to catch a young berkut with a trap which usually involves a large net and bait. Once it is captured, the berkutchi spends all of their time training it. They use a leather cap to cover its eyes, when the cap is taken off the eagles instincts are constantly to be on the look out for prey so this allows them to keep them calm. We were told that the berkutchi talks and sings to the berkut so they get used to hearing their voice.
Then it was time to see the beautiful berkut in action and the berkutchi started running with a stuffed fox fur on a piece of rope. The berkut is released from a distance and immediately sees its target. Once it catches the "fox" it flies off and holds it down. They're trained to wait for the berkutchi and she won't eat until he is by her side. They are trained to do minimal damage to the fur as they use this to make hats depending on the quality of it. Berkuts can easily catch pigeons, rabbits and foxes. The berkutchi explained that it's really important to reward the berkut as it is a bit like a child. If you do not reward her for her efforts she will either lash out or not return. So he often rewards her with food (typically a pigeon). It was both impressive and terrifying to see her strength and agility. Her beak is so strong she can easily crush through bones. When we were asked if we wanted to hold her, we hesitated ever so slightly but of course we were mostly intrigued! First Qiao-An was given the leather glove on which she can perch herself and was told to twist her arm back and forth. This imbalances the berkut and makes her spread her wings for balance. What a magnificent creature! Oleg also held her and was able to get her to show off her incredible wingspan.
After our meet and greet with White Tail they also introduced us to their hunting dog which is a breed called Taigan. It seemed like a gentle and good natured dog and was there mostly for the hugs. We weren't done yet, the last activity of the day was learning how to shoot a bow and arrow at a target. Channeling our inner Jennifer Lawrence (Hunger Games reference), we gave it our best shot but we both agreed it would be better to stick to our day jobs.
One of the experiences we didn't do was horse riding but this is something they also offer at different sites such as the Barskoon waterfall.
At our yurt camp not a whole lot was explained about yurts but this is what we could piece together from the limited information we had. Yurts are a portable circular structure made of wood lattices and covered in felt (for insulation). There are no windows and the outer layer is often a waterproof layer or in our case the yurts were covered with a metal structure. Apart from having to bend down when walking through the door of the yurt you can easily stand up straight once inside it. Traditionally a yurt has a stove in the middle which is used to simultaneously warm up the area and to cook. Its chimney reaches up all the way through the top of the middle of the roof. Then there are specifically assigned sections of the yurt. To the North is considered to be sacred, the West is for the men and the East is for the women and children. From reading a book by Tamar Valkenier who travelled as a nomad for 4 months in Mongolia, we also understood that there is particular etiquette around entering a yurt and dress code (typically not so strict for foreigners). Our yurt was only used as accommodation so we only had beds in ours.
The next morning we were already going to head back to Bishkek. Since our yurt camp was right on the edge of the lake, Qiao-An decided to take a refreshing dip before heading back. We can imagine that in the summer months, it's a great place to sit by the water with a drink and a good book. Although we haven't been converted to the yurt life because of the lack of windows, toilets and it being quite cold we did really enjoy our time being connected with nature and disconnected from our phones. We were happy with our stay as it served its purpose but just keep in mind that it is basic, affordable and the staff hardly speak English. No effort is made to make your stay a special experience. If you would like a more tourism focused experience where they immerse you into the local culture we would recommend booking at Feel Nomad. We didn't stay there ourselves as it was more expensive but they have great reviews and it looks like their aim is to really leave you feeling like you've had an all inclusive style experience!
Top sites to visit:
Issyk Kul
Skazka Canyon
Barskoon Waterfall
Karakol
How to get around:
Private transfers (expensive)
Rental car
Walk
Where to stay:
Yurt camp Meiman Ordo - For basic clean facilities right by the lake. It was basic but cheap at 30 EUR per night. There is no WiFi and the check-in process was very laid back. The food was very hit or miss, sometimes great and sometimes below average. There are no restaurants nearby without a car so it is pretty much the only place you can eat so just keep that in mind when booking the place. They can help you book activities in the area and we can highly recommend that!
For the foodies
Lunch/snack
Kafe Chay Mamy (for the best kattama in Kyrgyzstan)
Kafe Boz-Salkyn (freshly baked breads were absolutely amazing and the best we had in Central Asia. They're called lepyoshka and you can find them almost everywhere. They're baked in a tandyr oven, where they stick the dough to the sides of if it until they're ready to be taken out with a large flat wooden spatula).
Dinner (local tips we received for Karakol)
Altyn Kumara
On the way back to Bishkek, our hotel manager of the first hotel we stayed at stopped us by the side of the road to pick up one more local snack for us to try. It was called kurut and they look like dried yoghurt balls. It was a way for nomads to preserve yoghurt. They tasted a little dry and very salty so we would advise to have it with a drink on the side. A really big thank you to our friendly hotel manager for his hospitality, he truly made our experience in Kyrgyzstan even better with his numerous stories, knowledge and food stops. We know that a big part of our experience is also because we have almost no language barrier with Oleg being able to communicate with them but they're very kind people and want more tourism! You can use our valuable tips to curate your own itinerary or if you need more help feel free to reach out to us via our work with us section.
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