Can you imagine hiking an active volcano (one of our bucketlist items for a long time) and then drive to the coast and go surfing, all within 24 hours? This blogpost will tell you how to make it happen!
Why Guatemala? It has been our dream to see a real life volcano eruption, and be as close to it as 'safely' possible! We were about to find out that Guatemala also had some amazing surfing to offer, so keep reading if you want to hear more about this underrated surf town.
Day 1-2: Antigua
A trip to Guatemala almost can't be planned without a stop at Antigua. This used to be the old capital of Guatemala but was destroyed by an earthquake in 1773. Nowadays, it is a colourful city with cobblestone streets and Spanish colonial architecture. It is a good starting point for travellers as it is considered safe and has lots of restaurants and cafes dotted around the city centre.
We started the day with a morning run up to the hill of the cross. This gives you a beautiful view of the city of Antigua and the surrounding volcanoes. After that we went for a stroll around the city centre to admire the architecture.
Top sites to visit:
Iglesia de la Merced
Arco Santa Catalina
Artisan Market (Mercado de Artesanías Antigua Guatemala)
Hill of the Cross
Acatenango volcano
Fuego volcano
How to get around:
Walking
Uber (reliable in Guatemala City and Antigua, not really outside of these places)
Where to stay:
Hotel Maya Ik' - This quaint hotel with indoor fountains and with a traditional interior offers clean rooms and breakfast included in the room rate. We made use of their laundry service which was convenient as it was ready the same day. The staff was friendly and we would recommend staying here.
For the foodies:
A general note on restaurants and cafes in Guatemala. We have found the opening times on Google Maps very unreliable. Often the restaurants either didn't exist anymore or had different opening times, so our tip is to find their social media page for more up to date opening times to avoid doing a lot of unnecessary walking.
Breakfast/coffee
12 Onzas (for some of the best coffee we've had in our life)
Lunch/snacks
Maya Cacao Chocolateria (for delicious chocolates)
Doña María Gordillo (it is a traditional candy store where you have to try the canelitas de leche)
Unión Café (a great lunch spot with generous portions, we recommend trying their pancakes and smoothies!)
Dinner
Tacorazon (for cheap and tasty tacos with lots of topping and sauce options)
Day 3-4: Acatenango & Fuego Volcano
Ever wanted to see an active volcano that erupts every 10-15 minutes? What if we told you that you can get very close to it? Would you do it? If the answer is yes (which is the only right answer), you have to put Acatenango & Fuego on your bucketlist!
After seeing a number of pictures of Volcán de Fuego, we decided this was the one we wanted to see. It also came highly recommended by a couple of friends who have done the hike. After some research online, we found well reviewed guided tours from Wicho and Charlies and selected the "All included" package, which covers all the meals, free rental of the gear (jackets, pants, any warm layers you didn't bring) and most importantly, the option of staying in a private cabin. The way the trip was organised by Wicho and Charlies was very smooth from beginning to end, so we would highly recommend this tour company and their guides.
A few things that made it a standout experience:
Good level of English
Private, comfortable cabins (no sleeping bags required, they provided tons of warm blankets, a mattress and pillows)
Breakfast on the day of the hike at their agency, filtered water, snacks
Lockers at the agency, which is great if you have checked out of your hotel (just bring your own lock with you!)
Free rental gear (note: some things are paid)
Celebratory drink once the trip is completed (back at the agency)
It is a two day hike and be prepared for quite some walking! Based on our experience, we would recommend a good level of physical fitness in order to reach a total elevation of 3975m (the top of Acatenango volcano).
"Wait, didn't you say you hiked up Fuego?" Yes but to get to Fuego, you will hike up Acatenango which is a dormant volcano.
If you intend to hike to Fuego, your first day comprises of two parts. Part 1: Reach Acatenango base camp where you will be staying overnight. It takes on average 4-5 hours including breaks and lunch stop. Charlie & Wicho's website say you can do it in 3.5 hours but in reality, the group size is approx. 20 people and there will also be other groups going up (and down) at the same time which means we were waiting for each other. There were 3 guides for our group, this was enough to make sure the group could split up into different walking speeds. Part 2 (which is optional): Keep reading because this was the best part and you should not miss it if you've got more energy in the tank! It adds an additional 3-4 hours to the already 4-5 hour hiking day to see Fuego volcano eruptions (as close as 150 meter from crater) but it is so worth it! We reached it around sunset and you will have to hike back in the darkness. With Wicho & Charlie's it will cost you an extra 200 Quetzal (25 USD) per person. Promise, it is worth it! However, make sure you read our good to know section as there are some useful tips we have for you.
But don't worry, if you decide to skip Fuego, you will also be able to see the eruptions from base camp. When we arrived to the Fuego viewpoint, we could really feel and experience the rumbles of the volcano. One of the eruptions was so big, it was actually both exhilarating and a bit terrifying at the same time! Our guides told us that this was one of the biggest eruptions they had seen. They proceeded to tell us that they had heard big eruptions before but that it was usually covered by clouds so they didn't see anything. Once we came back from Fuego, the team had dinner ready at a later time slot than the people who stayed at base camp.
The following day you will have the chance to summit Acatenango volcano and have a sunrise view on Fuego volcano, the summit hike starts at 4:45. This is the first summit we decided to skip out on because Fuego was our highlight. Hiking an active volcano and getting as close to it as possible! We were tired from the full day hike and we didn't think the summit would bring us quite as much joy. In the end we made the right decision for us, we grabbed some extra sleep and when we woke up we were surrounded by fog and it was incredibly overcast. We heard from the small group that decided to do the summit that we didn't miss a thing because they couldn't see anything from the top. There was no view on Fuego and only clouds around them.
After breakfast, we packed up and the whole group made their way down. As it is all completely downhill, the trip down the volcano took us 2.5 hours including breaks. Then a bus brings you back to Wicho & Charlie's, we handed in our equipment and received a celebratory drink!
7 important things to know before you go to Acatenango & Fuego:
Requires a good level of fitness
Be prepared for a long day if you do Acatenango & Fuego
Bring proper hiking boots/shoes as the ascent will be steep and the terrain will be made up of loose rocks as well as going through a muddy cloud forest.
In addition to anything else you bring, you will need to carry 1L of water per person (extra) and your own lunch on the first day. 1L of water will be for the guides to make food and hot drinks for you at base camp.
Porters are available (they carry your backpack) which will cost an extra 200 Quetzal each way. It is possible to only have a porter one way. Note: the backpack will be weighed and if it's above a certain weight, there is an extra cost. We carried our own backpacks.
With Wicho & Charlie's, Fuego is an optional hike and requires a minimum of 4-6 people to go. Make some friends on the way who may want to do this so you have a bigger chance of going!
Our biggest tip: if the weather is good on the first day be opportunistic! If you have clear blue skies by the time you reach base camp, do the Fuego hike. As you never know whether the next day will be overcast. On that note, if you can't see Fuego from base camp then there is probably no point in doing the Fuego hike.
Day 4-8: El Paredon
On the same day as we returned from Acatenango, we had a transfer booked to El Paredon at 14:00. It was a smooth, well as soon as we left Antigua (remember, cobblestone streets) 3 hour bus ride to El Paradon. On the way there we had a gas station stop so we could have a comfort and snack break.
If you're not really into water activities, we do not recommend going to El Paredon for as long as we did. Our days consisted of a morning surf, breakfast, surf, lunch at Sandra's, relax in the lounge, dinner - rinse and repeat. There are mangroves nearby so you can book a SUP tour and we also saw a bike rental place.
Good to know:
In February, we noticed that during sunset around 17:30 every day at the beach around Mellow hostel, they were doing baby turtle releases. Feel free to join in!
Surfing is really good for beginners (and intermediates), just check every day when low tide and high tide starts and you're good to go.
A lot of restaurants are closed Monday and Tuesday, so make sure you have option A, B and C.
We were told there were no ATMs in El Paredon but noticed that there was one in one of the main supermarkets (Super 24).
Bring cash, you will be able to pay with credit card at your hotel/hostel but they typically charge 8-10%.
Where to stay:
Mellow hostel - What we liked about this hostel was that the facilities were clean and new. The shared lounge area and pool area was big and there were enough showers and toilets for all the guests. We stayed in a private room, the mellow tipi room, which had a charming palm roof, ceiling fan and a queen size bed. Private surf lessons were 170 Quetzal (22 USD) per hour and 24 hour surf board rental 120 Quetzal (15 USD) for the first day, and 100 Quetzal (13 USD) for the following day. We found this really good value for money and typically the hostels offer it a bit cheaper than the hotels in the area. They also offer daily yoga and organise family dinners twice a week to get to know other guests. We also noticed that most of the ''party" hostels are situated right on the beach and they serve their drinks out of plastic cups (gross) but Mellow hostel serves their drinks out of normal glasses.
Downsides: Even though you could walk the entire length of El Paradon in about 15 minutes, Mellow hostel is not right on the beach. It is a 5 minute walk away but if you prefer being right on the beach, there are plenty of options for you. If we would come back, we would not go for the tipi room again. It was charming and good value for money but it also was a tad too warm and since it's a bit open it allowed a lot of mosquitos in. They have room options with A/C.
For the foodies:
El Paredon has a sleepy surf town vibe, so just keep in mind that when you order any food or drinks here it will take some time to get served (this applies to all places we've listed below). Just a little heads up so you don't go for food when you're already hangry!
Breakfast/coffee
Cafecito Del Mar (for delicious avocado toast and good coffee)
Lunch/snacks
Sandra's (this place has surprisingly average ratings on Google reviews but we went here for lunch every day. We can recommend getting their ceviche and nachos with guacamole!)
Dinner
Chef in Flip Flops Beach Haus (no visit to El Paradon is complete without a dinner stop at one of the best reviewed restaurants. They offer a weekly changing menu which is announced on Instagram every Wednesday. They can sell out of dishes so be prepared to come early to avoid disappointment and to secure a table. It's a very laid back environment and you're encouraged to talk to your neighbours, as it gets busy so the tables become very cozy. We enjoyed their margaritas and yellow fin tuna poke bowls, and all at a very reasonable price!)
Olivia Artisan Restaurant (for generous sized pizzas with delicious toppings, we struggled to finish one each)
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