Georgia is not only known for sharing a name with one of the US states, but also for being the birthplace of wine. It has over 8000 years of wine-making history and is surrounded by pristine nature. From the majestic mountains of the Caucasus to the coast of the Black Sea, there is something to make every traveller's heart happy.
This was a new country for Oleg but not for Qiao-An. She first visited the country in 2017 to visit a friend who was doing an internship at the time in Georgia. Back then, the roads anywhere outside of the capital were in pretty poor condition and it was part of the adventure. Getting to one of the most beautifully located churches in Georgia, Gergeti Trinity Church, was only recommended with a 4x4 and not for the faint of heart. After having visited again in 2023, we can share that the roads have been improved pretty much everywhere. Don't shy away from a roadtrip in Georgia, it is truly epic!
Good to know:
Official language: Georgian (they have their own unique alphabet). Russian is also spoken however we were a bit more conscious and would usually first try in English and only proceed in Russian if they didn't understand. English is less widely spoken.
Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL).
They accept foreign credit cards however it is advised to have cash on you. Especially if you want to purchase some snacks at small bakeries and to pay for parking and comfort (toilet) breaks.
Georgia has a population of 3.7 million people and Tbilisi is the capital.
Georgia currently gives visa exemption to citizens of around 95 nations
Taxi's: order via the Bolt app
Public transportation in Tbilisi: buy a public transportation card at any of the metro stations.
Rental car: we recommend booking your rental car via locals dealers such as Car Rent Deme for 60 USD per day for Subaru Forester including insurance.
Dress code: There is no particular dress code when in the cities or in the countryside, only at religious sites such as churches and monasteries. At Georgian orthodox churches be prepared to be dressed modestly. In addition, for women it is required to wear a head scarf (can be a normal scarf to cover your hair) and either a long skirt or long dress. Some churches will provide scarves and wrap around skirts for women. It's possible that churches will allow you to walk in with trousers but it is better practice to wear a skirt over it. Our solution was carrying a simple skirt that could easy fit over a pair of leggings or trousers.
Day 1-3: Tbilisi
It is one of the few countries where the capital deserves just as much exploration as the rest of the country. Tbilisi is bound to leave an impression. It has the feeling of an ancient city rich in culture because of its old city walls, European looking facades, intricate balconies, colourful houses, and Islamic architecture. It even has a waterfall in the middle of the city!
It's interesting to see the contrast when visiting a city where most of its original architecture has survived the Soviet era. After visiting many capitals in Central Asia during our sabbatical, we definitely thought the buildings and statues start looking quite similar and this is not the case at all in Tbilisi.
Old town, Narikala Fortress and Mount Mtatsminda
The old town of Tbilisi is a great place to start, we first started walking towards Narikala which is an ancient fortress overlooking the city. Orbiri street will already give you a beautiful panoramic view. After that you can continue walking to Mother of Georgia (Kartlis Deda) statue, however the view from other parts of the city on the Mother of Georgia are way prettier than standing right beside it. The statue was built in 1958 when Tbilisi celebrated its 1500th birthday and is 20 metres tall!
Continue to the area of the sulfur baths and you will notice that the bathhouses have dome shaped roofs and are made of bricks. The most iconic bathhouse is called Chreli-Abano and is decorated with mosaic reminiscent of Uzbek mosques. The baths are naturally heated by the thermal springs. There are public and private baths and you can book your appointment in advance. This is also close to Leghvtakhevi Waterfall, which is a 22 meter tall waterfall in the middle of the city.
If you like panoramic views and you haven't had enough after Narikala Fortress, we also recommend taking the Tbilisi Funicular up Mount Mtatsminda. Go around (or after) dinner time to have a bite to eat at the Funicular restaurant and try their ponchiki (donuts). Qiao-An did this back in 2017 and it was worth the views and sweet treats!
Holy Trinity Cathedral
The Holy Trinity Cathedral or Sameba, which was built in 2004, is the largest Orthodox Church in all of Georgia and has become a symbol of Tbilisi. It was built in celebration of 2000 years of Christianity in Georgia and spiritual revival. What makes the building so striking is the golden dome (which can be seen from miles away) and its modern architecture. Entrance is free of charge and for more information on dress code in Orthodox churches, read advice in the "good to know" section. We recommend coming early in the day to get good pictures without the crowds.
The distances in Tbilisi can be pretty far to walk everywhere so apart from comfortable walking shoes we also recommend using a combination of taxi's (using the Bolt app) or if you're comfortable riding e-scooters you can download the Qari app and register yourself. We found it a really quick, fun and affordable way to get around the city!
Chronicle of Georgia
The Chronicle of Georgia is a monument that was created by Zurab Tsereteli who is a Georgian born architect, painter and sculptor best known for his large scale monuments. It is located on top of a hill right be the Tbilisi sea which is a reservoir on the outskirts of the city. The construction of this monument started in 1985 but to this day is still not completed. The 16 pillars are about 30 meters tall and tell the history of Georgia with lots of religious elements in it. There is a sign that says the monument celebrates 3000 years of Georgian sovereignty and 2000 years of Christianity. It is easily accessible by car, there is a parking lot and it was free of charge for us to park there. Without a car it's not easy to reach this area so in that case we would recommend booking a taxi and agreeing with them upfront that they will wait for you or to go with a guided tour.
The structure is in a similar style of one in the centre of Tbilisi right by the Museum of the contemporary Georgian art which is called the Apple of Love.
Top sites to visit:
Sulfur Baths
Leghvtakhevi Waterfall
Narikala Fortress
Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi
Tbilisi Funicular
If short on time, skip:
Chronicle of Georgia
Mother Georgia
How to get around:
Walk
E-scooter (Qari)
Taxi (Bolt)
Bus
Metro
Car
Where to stay
Piano Borracho Hotel - For a comfortable stay in a boutique style hotel with various themes. They have a unique style and depending on what room you select it will be decorated in a different theme. It was well priced at 42 EUR per night and located walking distance from old town. The only thing to note is that there are quite some stairs going up to this accommodation and also to the rooms so it's not recommended for people with limited mobility. The place is ideal for friends and couples, not so much for families.
For the foodies:
If you're a bit of a foodie and not lactose intolerant, you're going to love Georgia. They have such a rich and diverse cuisine, it would be a shame not try as much as possible from it! As explained below in the different restaurants some must try's are: khinkali, khachapuri, badrijani and mtsvadi. There is so much more though and these are just some of our favourites!
Breakfast/coffee
Entrée (there are multiple locations in Tbilisi and perfect for an easy breakfast and sandwiches. We also went here to grab lunch and fresh fruit for takeaway, it was our go to place!)
Breakfast IS (for an amazing brunch place with great food and coffee)
Lunch/snacks
Puri Guliani (for freshly baked khachapuri which is a cheese filled bread made in different styles according to the different regions of Georgia. The cheese is sulguni which is best described as slightly salty and chewy in texture, when melted similar to mozzarella. Our favourite is the Acharuli which is shaped like a boat and from the area close to the Black Sea coast. It is topped with a slice of butter and raw egg and you mix it together with the cheese so it cooks through)
Dinner
Khinkali House (for the best khinkali we had in Tbilisi. They are similar to big soup dumplings which you have to eat in a particular way to make sure the soup doesn't pour onto your plate. You bite off a piece and then carefully slurp out the soup. Then you continue to eat the khinkali, make sure you don't eat the top part as that's only to hold the khinkali and is usually not cooked all the way through. We also recommend ordering badrijani nigvzit which are fried eggplants rolled with walnut garlic paste and georgian salad with walnut dressing.)
Sofia Melnikova's Fantastic Douqan (for everything we mentioned at khinkali house but if you want to try something else we also recommend the mtsvadi which is grilled pork skewers. Typically served with raw sliced onions and pomegranate seeds)
Drinks
Karalashvili wine cellar (a great place to taste Georgian wines, lots of space and the staff is friendly)
Winery khareba (all places sell their own wines but this one does it by the liter so if you're in Tbilisi for a while, bring your own plastic bottle and they'll fill it up for you. Alternatively, you can take a seat and enjoy wine in their shop)
Impulse (for a glass of wine in an artistic environment. The house is filled with art and is owned by a family that also makes their own wine. The wines are a bit pricier than at the other two places but worth trying just for the experience)
Day 4-5: Stepantsminda
If you're going to venture out of Tbilisi, a visit to Stepantsminda (also known as Kazbegi) can't be missed! If you search Georgia, one of the first things that will come up is the Gergeti Trinity Church which is a church perched on a hill surrounded by mountains covered in snow. The view is truly as idyllic as it sounds! There are also plenty of hiking opportunities, and if you're a mountaineering enthusiast you could consider hiking Mount Kazbek (5054 m).
The road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi is called the Georgian Military Road and it runs all the way through the Greater Caucasus mountains to Vladikavkaz in Russia. There are many scenic stops along the way, so we recommend starting early! Nowadays, there are big tourist buses that go around the main sites in Georgia. This is great for people who don't want to drive or don't have a driving license but for those who don't enjoy the crowds, the only advantage this brings is better parking and toilet facilities.
Mtskheta, Ananuri Fortress, Gudauri
Just 20km North of Tbilisi is Mtskheta which is one of Georgia's oldest cities. 6 years ago, Qiao-An visited the city and it is definitely worthwhile stopping by, but if you're looking for a quick stop navigate to Jvari Monastery. This 6th century monastery is located on top of a mountain to the East of Mtskheta which has a wonderful view on the city and the confluence of the two rivers: Mtkvari and Aragvi. The different colours of the river is what makes this scenery unique.
The next stop is Ananuri Fortress Complex right by the Zhinvali reservoir. The reservoir is an artificial lake with a beautiful blue hue surrounded by mountains and trees. The perfect place for a lunch stop if you ask us. The site dates back to the 13th century when it was built as a barrier against enemies. Some notable parts of the complex that remain today are: two churches, a bell tower and the guard towers. If you want to get the best view we recommend walking along the stairs of the fortress walls until you reach the stairs of one of the towers. Climb up the narrow windy stairs to get that iconic view of the churches and the Zhinvali reservoir in the background, we promise you it's worth it!
About 30km before arriving to Stepantsminda on the Georgian Military Road you will pass by the Gudauri Panorama or the Gudauri Friendship Monument. It was built in 1983 to celebrate 200 years since the treaty of Georgievs was signed. The monument is covered in colourful mosaic depicting scenes and characters from Georgian and Russian history. It's location is even more stunning as it is on a 600 meter cliff and overlooks a valley with the Caucasus mountains in the background.
The town of Stepantsminda is pretty uneventful, we recommend staying there because it's close to the Gergeti Trinity Church and Mount Kazbek. It is a great place to stay so you can beat the crowds in the morning as there are lots of tour buses that do the route between Tbilisi and Stepantsminda. For a great view on the mountains with food and drinks, go to the famous hotel called Rooms. Since 2017, a lot has changed. The hotel used to have a luxurious looking interior and friendly staff. When we visited this time, the furniture looked tired and the staff didn't greet the visitors anymore, perhaps because it's become such a busy tourist spot. We would still recommend stopping for a refreshment and to take in the views but we would say for dinner or a hotel stay it has become a bit overhyped.
Gergeti Trinity Church
We visited Gergeti Trinity Church twice, once in the afternoon of our arrival to go inside and to walk around the premises and again early in the morning to walk in the surrounding area. If you have the time, this is the way to do it. Be as opportunistic as you can because the weather in the mountains can be unpredictable. If you only have one chance to visit go in the morning as early as possible. Then wait until about 9:00 to go inside the church (make sure you're appropriately dressed). The best view on Gergeti Trinity Church is when you park your car in the parking lot and walk towards mount Kazbek up the hill. There will be horses relaxing in the grass nearby and everything about the scenery is just idyllic.
The church is believed to be built in the 14th Century but there is no information known about the exact date of construction, the architect and the builders. The name is attributed to the village of Gergeti. It is arguably one of the most iconic and most photographed places in Georgia. The church is at a height of 2200 metres and has a stunning mountain range as a backdrop.
Day 6-7: Kakheti
If you made it this far down, you've gotten to the best part: WINE!
Now that we have your attention, there are 24 registered protected designation of origin (PDO) wine appellations (areas) in Georgia. Most of these are located in the Eastern part of the country. If it is your first time in Georgia, the number one place to try is Kakheti as it is the biggest and best known wine region. With over 12,000 square kilometres of rolling vineyards it is bound to be the best place to be introduced to the ancient wine tradition of Georgia. There are 525 indigenous grape varieties and they still make some of their wines in the traditional clay vessel which are called Qvevri and they are stored in the ground. However, the nowadays they also use the European method of stainless steel tanks and oak barrels.
We decided to look up a wine estate so we could have the full experience of walking through the vineyards, a wine cellar tour and most importantly, a wine tasting. If you've never had Georgian wines before make sure you try a red wine and an amber wine. Georgia is known for their amber coloured wines such as Kisi and this is made from a white grape variety. The grape skins are left in the Qvevri to ferment and this is what gives the wine its distinct orange colour. Saperavi and Kindzmarauli are popular red wines which you should definitely try. Kindzmarauli is made of the Saperavi grape but the fermentation process is stopped earlier before all the sugar is converted to alcohol and this gives it a natural sweetness.
Our stay at Schuchmann Wines Château was exactly what we were looking for! If you book via their own website your room rate includes a wine tour & tasting, spa treatment (a bath in actual wine and a massage), and breakfast. They also have jacuzzi's and swimming pool facilities. A wonderful place to unwin(e)d. During the wine tour you'll find out that the origins of the name comes from the German investor who works together with a third generation Georgian wine maker. They produce 1.5 million bottles of wine a year (Qiao-An is posing with some on the picture above) and 90% is exported.
Top sites to visit:
Ananuri Fortress
Jvari Monastery
Gudauri
Gergeti Trinity Church
Kakheti wine region
Alaverdi Monastery
Kvetera Fortress's Church
Extra tips from Qiao-An's 2017 visit:
David Gareji Monastery
Bodbe Monastery
Sighnaghi
How to get around:
Car (highly recommended)
Walk
Bus/shuttle transfer
Taxi
Where to stay:
Stepantsminda
GRAF Kazbegi (47 EUR per night) - A clean and comfortable room, unfortunately it wasn't ready at our check in time which was a bit inconvenient but the place was well located, affordable and had a good view.
Kakheti
Schuchmann Wines Château (102 EUR per night, including wine tasting and spa) - This is the perfect place for a little retreat and to experience Georgian hospitality. The staff upgraded us to a nicer room, the spa treatment was lovely and the wine tour, wine tasting and facilities were wonderful. For the best rates, we recommend booking via their website and reserving your spa treatment and wine tasting upfront.
For the foodies:
Breakfast/coffee
Bakery for the best bread and food in general in Stepantsminda. Sadly, we didn't manage to find a great place to have dinner but this bakery made up for it. The baker runs a one man show and sells normal and filled bread. We came at the end of the day after a disappointing meal and he was closing up shop. We saw some breads left so we insisted on buying it but he didn't want to sell them to us because the bottoms were a bit burnt. So he gave us one for free. We can confirm it was delicious and were grateful he handed us one. So the next morning we returned to buy them fresh and they were even better! We suggest to try the one with cheese!
Lunch/snacks
Rooms hotel (for lunch, dinner, tea and snacks with a beautiful view on Kazbek mountain if you're lucky with the weather. It was the best place to go for food in Stepantsminda in 2017 and it still is. It is on the pricier side for Georgia but we tried a different place that was equally pricey and not that good).
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