For those who aren't familiar with where Puglia is, it's a region in the South of Italy. If you imagine the boot shape of Italy, it is the heel of it. We were looking for a location with good food, wine and to recharge our batteries as the first months of work right after the sabbatical were for sure the hardest. With the rise in popularity of the masserie in Italy we have had Puglia on our minds for a while. A masseria is usually located in the countryside and is a complex of buildings and a farm. Nowadays, these have been revamped into stylish accommodation and a nice little retreat for visitors. Often they offer farm-to-table meals and a great place to relax by the pool with a good book. We did go in December though so we knew we weren't going to take a dip in the sea or outdoor pool. Just a couple of weeks before we were going to our masseria they had a problem with their heating system and had to cancel our reservation. Were we not going to be able to stay in one of these beautiful houses in the countryside after all? Luckily, they pointed us in the direction of another gem tucked away in the village of Gemini.
Good to know:
Official language: Italian. English is well spoken in the bigger cities, when you're travelling around the villages it's less widely spoken.
Currency: Euro's (EUR)
The best way to explore Puglia is by car, make sure you book yourself a rental car.
Peak season is the summer period as Puglia is by the coast and has beautiful beaches on the Ionian and Adriatic Sea.
Check the opening times of shops and restaurants as they close for siesta anywhere between 13:00 and 18:00. Restaurants usually between 15:00-19:00.
When visiting towns like Polignano a Mare, make sure you read up about parking. They have different coloured lines indicating whether it's free, paid parking or only parking for residents (during certain months).
If you're a James Bond fan, consider visiting Matera which is officially in the region of Basilicata.
If you're planning a roadtrip, try to find accommodation outside of the big busy cities as the distances aren't huge and driving is easy. Then you can base yourself from a few places and plan day trips to different cities.
Top cities to visit:
Polignano a Mare
Ostuni
Alberobello
Lecce
Matera (Basilicata)
If short on time, skip:
Santa Maria di Leuca
Gallipoli
Grottaglie
Otranto
How to get around:
Car
Walk (in the cities)
Day 1-2 Polignano a Mare, Gemini, Santa Maria di Leuca & Gallipoli:
We flew into Bari airport and drove straight to Polignano a Mare. This seaside town is located along a rocky cliff on the Adriatic coast and with its white stone houses it creates the most idyllic scenery.
We managed to find parking on the Via S. Vito quite close to the Belvedere Su Lama Monachile which is a wonderful viewpoint. Lama Monachile is the iconic pebble beach in Polignano a Mare. In the summer, the photo's look like the place is absolutely packed but in the winter it was quite calm. The best way to explore the city is on foot and to walk down the winding streets.
After that we headed to Gemini to Corte Largo Lauro which is a beautiful old house with a large courtyard which all the rooms face. It is from the 1800s and the owners Anna and Massimo have done a great job keeping the historical details but fitted with modern facilities and even a spa with indoor pool! We experienced true Puglian hospitality here and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone else planning to visit the area! We will let the photos do the rest of the convincing. They serve some of the best breakfast we've ever had and don't forget to try the breakfast pastry called pasticciotto.
Punta Ristola Leuca, Punta della Suina & Gallipolli
If you drive all the way South you will reach the town of Santa Maria di Leuca and the Basilica Santuario di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae. Finibus Terrae is latin for "at the end of the Earth".
Punta Ristola Leuca is a short drive away and a viewpoint where you can walk over the rocky cliffs and look into the caves that are carved into these cliffs. It is also the point where the Adriatic and Ionian Sea meet. We can imagine that in the summer one of the activities to do here is to get on a boat and explore the caves. On the way to Gallipolli we recommend a stop at Punta della Suina which is a sand beach surrounded by trees and rocks.
Gallipoli is a town on the Ionian coast and a great place to watch the sunset as it's located on the west. We recommend parking your car before you cross the bridge into the old town. The streets are colourful with painted buildings and everything has a bit of a nostalgic feel to it. It literally feels like walking in a town frozen in time.
Day 3-5: Lecce, Grottaglie, Ostuni & Alberobello
Lecce
For the next few days we based ourselves out of Lecce because were were spending New Year's Eve (NYE) there. The architecture was a little more what we were used to seeing from Italy, baroque style and intricately decorated. A great way to start exploring the city is to buy the LeccEcclesiae ticket (ticket office located in the Seminary on the piazza del Duomo) which will give you entrance to:
Duomo
Basilica di Santa Croce
Chiesa di Santa Chiara
Chiesa di San Matteo
Antico Seminario
Museo di Arte Sacra (MuDAS)
The ticket price for adults is 11 EUR or 21 EUR if you also want to access the bell tower of the Duomo. In December 2023, there was still some scaffolding around the bell tower so we didn't really see the point in going in. Even if you're visiting during national holidays, these sites will be open. For the most up to date information on opening times and prices refer to this link.
A short drive from Lecce is Otranto and on the way to this coastal town you can pass by the Grotto della Poesia (Cave of Poetry). The parking lot is in Madonna di Rocca Vecchia, make sure you park there as you're not allowed to park along the side of the road.
The legend of the grotto is that a beautiful princess used to bathe in the cave attracting poets from everywhere who dedicated their poems to her. The place is stunning so it's not hard to imagine that they felt inspired.
It's prohibited to swim in the cave to preserve the area but there are some steps carved into the side which means you can walk down and take a closer look. The water sparkles in the sunlight and is a striking turquoise blue. Tip: bring sturdy shoes because the surrounding area has sharp rocks. If you bring a picnic with you, you can easily spend some time there looking out onto the Adriatic Sea.
Otranto is a charming town with a rather dark history as it was historically susceptible to attacks from across the Adriatic (the Ottoman empire). Walk along the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Aragonese Castle of Otranto towards the marina (Porto di Otranto). If you're looking for a restaurant ther are a lot dotted along the marina with a view on the sea.
A note on spending NYE in Lecce, we would not necessarily recommend it if you're big on NYE celebrations. If you like to party we can imagine that the bigger cities like Brindisi or Bari would be more lively. For us, it was great because it meant our area wasn't too noisy and we could get a good night sleep.
Grottaglie
The ceramics capital of Puglia, if you love ceramics this is a must visit! What's special about Grottaglie ceramics is that they're made with clay that's extracted locally. The town has a ceramics district that has over 50 shops and workshops built into actual caves. We visited Bottega Ceramica Di Fasano Antonio and really liked his style!
If you like ceramics and you don't have time to go to Grottaglie just keep your eyes peeled for ceramics workshops in Puglia while you're on the road. We went to one in Ruffano called Ceramiche e Terrecotte Fernando Falcone which had a big collection of ceramics.
Ostuni
When driving towards Ostuni the first thing you'll notice is that this white city is built on top of a hill. The city is a literal gem from a distance as the whitewashed buildings reflect the sunlight beautifully. Ostuni is located in the Valle d'Itria which is known for it's olive groves, vineyards and every now and then you'll see the coned roofs of the trulli peaking through. More on that later!
The streets in the old town of the citadel are some of the best to explore. Every corner we turned we would see a window or door or alley that would be perfect to photograph. It was one of our favourite cities in Puglia!
Alberobello
A visit to Valle d'Itria would not be complete without visiting Alberobello, a UNESCO world heritage site where you will find the largest concentration of trulli. Small houses with tiny windows and a conical roof. They're made of limestone and these structures date back to mid-14th century. The roof often has a a type of symbology on it which are categorised as primitive, Christian and magic. On top of the stone roof is a decorative pinnacle and there are many theories about these ranging from ornamental to magical.
Whether you believe in magic or not, the dwarf like houses do look like they come straight out of a fairytale. We would not recommend basing yourself out of this town as it's very touristy. We think the beauty of Puglia is that you can find places to stay where you feel more secluded. It's a scenic drive to Alberobello and if you want to skip it all together you can also spot trulli in Locorotondo and Martina Franca.
Day 6-7: Matera (Basilicata)
Matera is just across from the Puglian border in Basilicata. What is its significance? It dates back to the paleolithic times also referred to as the Old Stone Age and is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Sassi di Matera are two districts (Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano) which are known for having a complex of cave dwellings inhabited by one of the first human settlements in Italy. They refer to these settlements as troglodyte. Matera is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Italy. The ancient town is built on the slope of a ravine created by the Gravina river. You can cross to the other side of this ravine to get one of the best views of Matera. It takes about 1.5 hours (round trip) for the hike called Belvedere Murgia Timone via the Tibetan Suspension Bridge and we recommend wearing closed shoes (no sandals). The starting point of this trail is by the parking lot on Via Madonna delle Virtù by the Piazza Santa Lucia alla Civita.
Be prepared to walk a lot in Matera and keep in mind that there can be a lot of steps up and down as it's built in layers. Exploring the town is a lot of fun as there are various hotels, shops and restaurants built into these caves. Everything about Matera looks cinematic!
Matera is also famous because of various movies that have been filmed here. One of the latest ones being 007 - No Time To Die. The car chase scene switches between Matera and Gravina in Puglia for the scene where James Bond jumps off the bridge. We passed by the bridge but it was still undergoing major restoration in January 2024. We would recommend skipping this and passing by the town of Massafra instead where they also have a beautiful bridge (a bit less epic) passing over the Gravina di San Marco. Just navigate yourself to lungovalle Niccolò Andria and you will find the viewpoint.
Where to stay:
Gemini
Corte Largo Lauro Dimore & Spa (125 EUR/night) - A gem in the heart of Gemini, a large house from the 1800s with a courtyard and rooftop where you can sit back and watch the sunset. The rooms are spacious, nicely decorated and the breakfast Anna & Massimo serve is a combination of local and homemade treats with lots of savoury and sweet options. They have a well-stocked wine cellar with wines from the region. We got complimentary dried figs with almonds "fichi maritati" with our bottle of wine, and you absolutely have to taste them! They have a spa complete with steam room, sauna and indoor pool. The perfect place to recharge after a long day of exploring. If that hasn't convinced you already, let us tell you that the hosts are some of the most welcoming and generous people we've met. A true reflection of Puglian hospitality.
Lecce
Le Stanze Del Duomo (103 EUR/night) - located pretty much right in the centre of town it is a comfortable and convenient place to base yourself from. Breakfast is included and because we stayed here during NYE we got a complimentary bottle of prosecco which was a very nice touch.
Matera
Limen Matera (120 EUR/night) - they even joke in their description that the only thing they don't have is an elevator. Be prepared to walk up a couple of flights of stairs but if you book a room with a view, we promise you it's worth it. From the balcony you have a beautiful view on the Sassi di Matera. Paola is a really friendly host who will give you all the tips you want for Matera. Limen is a 10 minute walk to the old town area. The breakfast is great and there is plenty of choice.
For the foodies:
There are a couple of foods you have to try in Puglia. What's great about Italy is that a lot of their produce can be sourced very locally so don't be surprised when you see the term "0 km". This means it is local or farm-to-table.
Pasticciotti - originally a breakfast pastry from Lecce but you can get it all over Puglia which is filled with a type of pastry cream/custard. Variations on flavours exist where you will find pistachio and lemon flavours but the traditional one is a simple custard.
Puccia - a traditional bread from Salento which can be made with bread or pizza dough and then filled with amazing toppings such as ham, cheese and we even had one with octopus and stracciatella.
Panzerotti - Italians just have a great way of turning leftovers into something delicious (like how arancini is made with leftover risotto). Panzerotti are made with leftover bread dough and usually filled with cheese, meat or veggies and folded into what looks like a mini calzone. The perfect street food if you ask us!
Orecchiette - Puglian pasta which gets its name from the shape which resembles a small ear. A combination of agricultural abundance and economic scarcity is what created Pugliese cucina povera, the “poor cuisine”. Orecchiette con cime di rapa is one of the dishes that was created because the farmer's had to sell their produce to the wealthier regions and would cook the less desirable bits (turnip greens or rapini) for their own meals.
Taralli - Small crispy dough rings which are a savoury snack usually served with a glass of wine or aperitivo.
Capocollo di Martina Franca - a lightly smoked and cured ham, the flavour is enhanced by the smoking of almond husk and Fragno bark. We ordered this for lunch whenever we could and it would come served with a drizzle of olive oil.
Burrata and Stracciatella - this probably needs no explanation but was first made in Puglia. Originally made to minimise food waste it incorporates fresh cream and mozzarella cheese strings to make this wonderful cheese that looks like a mozzarella ball and when you cut into it, it has a runny creamy centre.
The two types of red wines to try are primitivo and negroamaro!
We recommend you stay in B&B type accommodation so breakfast is included! It's the best way to try the famous pasticciotto. Also it is recommended to make reservations for dinner, especially in peak season.
Lunch/snacks
Bontà sotto l'arco - Polignano a Mare (for the puccia with octopus and stracciatella)
Pescheria da Pasqualino - Polignano a Mare (for super fresh seafood, we had sliced raw fish with olive oil and it was amazing. Don't be surprised when you walk in, it's more like a fish shop)
La bottega del corso - Lecce (it looks like a delicatessen store but they also serve amazing food. Make sure to try a burrata and capocollo platter here)
Taula - Lecce (for lovely puccia right by the Duomo, we tried one with mortadella we really liked)
Natale Pasticceria - Lecce (a delicious pastry and gelato shop, we stopped here regularly and even brought almond cookies back home from here)
Martinucci - various locations (a pastry shop chain which is a nice stop for some sweet treats and an espresso if you need a little pick me up during the day. They will have one in most towns you will visit in Puglia)
Pasticceria Sa Keer 3 - Racale (a local pasticceria where there was no English spoken but where we had the most affordable pastries and coffee of our trip)
Osteria Briganti - Gallipoli (a good lunch stop located in the old town with seafood options)
Dolce Arte Cafe - Alberobello (for great espresso and pastries away from the touristy areas. When we arrived it was pretty empty and only visited by Italians. Try the mini sfogliatelle, you won't regret it!)
Il Rusticone - Matera (they serve pizza, puccia and panzerotti. We love the street style vibe and it’s a great place to grab a quick bite to eat)
Di Gesù Bakery - Altamura (this bakery, like many in Altamura and in Puglia make the ancient bread: pane di Altamura. It is believed to date back to the 1st century BC. This bread usually gets served before your meal and pairs well with olive oil. We went for the tomato foccacia filled with sliced ham for lunch)
Bar Pasticceria Ciccimarra - Altamura (a great place for an espresso and pastries, we took some to go)
Dinner
Crazy Pizza - Gemini (for the most affordable takeaway pizza we had the whole trip! Really friendly people working there)
Farnari Unconventional Locanda - Gemini (it's a lovely place to go for a set menu, high quality ingredients. However, some of the dishes were a bit hit or miss. It is more on the pricey side)
La Succursale Pizza & Cucina - Lecce (try their margherita sbagliata, we still dream of this pizza)
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira - Lecce (they also have an enoteca but that's more like a wine bar, we recommend going to their restaurant if you're planning to have dinner. We really enjoyed their pasta dishes)
Vico del cucienere - Lecce (truth be told, we stumbled upon this restaurant because it was the one of few which were open on January 1st. We really enjoyed their pasta dishes, especially the one with the generous amount of shaved truffle on top)
Ristorante Burro Salato - Matera (even though it was considered off peak season in Matera, it was impossible to find a restaurant without a reservation. Everything was fully booked. We got lucky with this place and it was recommended by the host of our accommodation. They have French and Southern Italian inspired cuisine and the host as well as her staff are really friendly. If you've ever wanted to have Italian food with a French crêpe on the side this may just be the place to do order it!)
Local recommendations that we didn't try:
Le Macare Ristorante - Alezio
Le Cantiniera Enoteca - Racale
Entroterra - Alliste
Il Mulino di Alcantara - Felline
Antico Monastero - Felline
400 Gradi - Matera
Drinks
Quanto Basta - Lecce (a popular cocktail bar with only outdoor seating. We went here because Cocktail Bar Saloon Keeper 1933 was closed and don't regret it. The drinks and atmosphere are good and the waiters are friendly)
Spritzzeria Matera (for different takes on the Aperol Spritz and a great place for an aperitivo. Caution: the glasses are the size of your head!)
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