Diving into the unknown: you better Belize it!

Belize first came up in conversation because Qiao-An wanted to get her PADI Open Water diver scuba diving certification. Suddenly, selecting our next destination wasn't just about exploring a new country. It was also about finding a beautiful place to dive with a diving school! After a quick online search, we found ourselves drawn to Belize. Something about diving in a natural sinkhole so big it can be seen from outer space seemed like a one-of-a-kind experience we couldn't miss.

Beyond its stunning beaches and world-class diving, Belize is also a treasure trove of ancient history, home to some of the most impressive Maya ruins in Central America. These ancient cities, once thriving centres of culture and power, offer a glimpse into a civilisation that flourished over a thousand years ago. From the temples of Caracol to Xunantunich, exploring these ruins will feel like you're stepping back in time. And for those with more time to explore you can easily do a border crossing from Belize to Guatemala (here is a link to our blog from there)!

Good to know:

• It is the only Central American country where the official language is: English. The other two major languages spoken are Spanish and Creole. Creole is more commonly spoken in the Belize district, and Spanish is more commonly spoken in the Cayo district. Three Mayan languages are also spoken in Belize.

• Currency: Belize Dollar (BZD), the official value is pegged at 2BZD = 1USD.

• Foreign credit cards are accepted in a lot of restaurants and supermarkets but you will occasionally find places (especially street food) that only accept cash payment. We highly recommend bringing USD and taking out some BZD from the ATMs. It is possible to pay with USD but your change will usually be in BZD.

• Belize has a population of 420,000 people and the majority reside in Belize City (61,000). San Ignacio comes in at number 26,000 and Belmopan which is the capital has 13,000 people.

• Best season to visit is December - April which is considered the dry season. This is also considered peak season but when we travelled early December, the season felt like it was just starting. It wasn't that busy at all!

• Safety concerns: this always comes with a note that it's based on personal experience. We felt safe in Belize and it was also safe to walk at night in places like Caye Caulker and San Ignacio. We were told by our guide on our way back from Caracol that he could leave the car running with the key in it and nobody would steal it there. He did say that's not the case in Belize City.

• International tourism contributes about 46% to Belize's economy. We found people, especially in the tourism industry very friendly and helpful. There seemed to be a genuine interest in what brings you there e.g. diving, Maya sites.

• Tipping culture: we found that tips were always appreciated but not necessarily expected. Some places would ask you if you wanted to include a tip when paying by card but we would say this wasn't usual. We would stick to about 10%.

Top sites to visit:

• Caye Caulker

• Hol Chan Marine Reserve

• The Great Blue Hole

• San Ignacio

• Caracol

• Xunantunich

• Green Iguana Conservation Project

Day 1-4: Caye Caulker, Hol Chan Marine Reserve and the Great Blue Hole

The best way to get to Caye Caulker (caye is pronounced as "key") from Belize City is by ferry. There are two companies sailing this route:

• San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi (21 USD per person, one way)

• Caribbean Sprinter (29-30 USD per person, one way)

We only used San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi as they run more frequently. The other company claims to be faster but they have a similar time table to San Pedro Belize Express. So take into account that it will take 45 mins from Belize City to Caye Caulker. Make sure you have a book and water with you, perhaps it's best to eat something light before the trip rather than on the boat as it can be bumpy depending on the sea conditions.

Tip: It isn't necessary to book online tickets in advance. It's good to know that even if you did reserve tickets online for a specific time you are not bound to that time. If you want to leave earlier or later this is possible.

When you arrive to Caye Caulker, check where your hotel is. There will be golf carts (taxi service) waiting to bring you to your hotel but if it's only a 5 min. walk away it might not be worth paying for it.

Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker’s is home to the Belize Barrier Reef, the second-largest coral reef system in the world. The reef has long been a vital resource for the island’s inhabitants. It provided both food and protection from storms. When Mestizo refugees fled the Caste War of Yucatán (1847–1901), they settled on Caye Caulker. They relied on the reef’s abundant marine life for survival, establishing a thriving fishing community. Lobster, conch, and other seafood became a source of trade and income for the islanders. Over the years the island evolved into a popular destination for travellers drawn to the reef’s diverse marine life, snorkelling, and diving spots.

The island's motto is "go slow", so keep that in mind when you're going out for food or drinks. It's better to go before you're hungry and before places get busy. We did enjoy the laid-back vibe of the island, you never need to worry about showing up late anywhere as they would usually start about 20 mins later than scheduled.

Good to know before you go to Caye Caulker:

• If pristine beaches is what you're looking for, this may not be the destination for you. Caye Caulker is a limestone coral island which does not naturally produce sandy beaches. There are a couple of manmade ones on the island.

• It is split into a Northern and Southern part of the island. Most of the hotels and restaurants are on the Southern island and that is also where ferry from Belize City arrives. We would recommend staying there.

• Snorkelling and diving are the main activities to do from this island. If you're not planning on doing this, 2 days is plenty.

• Snorkelling tours can be booked 1-2 days in advance.

• Diving tours are best booked in advance, typically because they need a certain number of people to go. They often have specific days they'll go to dive sites so it's wise to inquire beforehand (via email).

• ATMs are available on the island, it is not necessary to take out cash before you arrive to the island.

• Caye Caulker's southern island is only 8km long and 2km wide, the main mode of transport is on foot. There are golf carts going up and down the island in case you need a transfer but there are no other motorised vehicles. There is bike rental available.

• Bring mosquito spray (if it's oily, it will be more effective), we got absolutely attacked by mozzies and/or sandflies especially in the evenings at restaurants.

Hol Chan Marine Reserve

We booked a full day snorkelling trip with Salt Life Eco Tours for (90 USD per person). The reserve is home to over 160 species of fish and you'll also spot turtles, rays and sharks. If you're lucky, you'll also be able to spot a manatee. The tour is well organised, lunch is included and they bring you to a lot of sites. The only downside is that one of the popular stops "shark ray alley". It's a place where other boat companies feed the sharks (for tourism) which is why so many nurse sharks show up. You will also be able to spot nurse sharks when you go snorkelling/diving in other spots just not in the same numbers.

The Great Blue Hole

Did you know that the Great Blue Hole is a giant underwater sinkhole? Measuring approximately 300 meters wide and 125 meters deep, this natural wonder was once part of an extensive system of dry caves and tunnels. Thousands of years ago, as the Ice Age ended and sea levels rose, these caves became flooded. Over time, the roof of one massive cave collapsed, forming the distinctive circular sinkhole we see today.

We booked The Great Blue Hole as a full day activity where you visit 3 dive sites with Blue Wave Divers. As mentioned in the "good to know" section, if you're limited in time at Caye Caulker it's recommended to check when they'll be running this tour as they need a minimum group of people. The Great Blue Hole is the first stop and about 2 hours away. The trip can be a bit rough as most of it is on open water, so we would recommend taking sea sickness medication if you're prone to sea sickness.

The edges of the Blue Hole are lined with vibrant coral reefs, attracting a variety of marine life. While the deeper sections of the sinkhole doesn't have a lot of marine life, you may still encounter various species of shark. At a depth of 40 meters, the cave system begins to reveal itself, allowing divers to swim among the stalactites. This was truly an unforgettable underwater experience!

Half Moon Caye & The Aquarium

Half Moon Caye is part of Belize's Lighthouse Reef Atoll and one of the easternmost islands of Belize. We had a lunch stop on the island which was declared Belize's first nature reserve in 1982. This was mainly to protect the nesting red-footed boobies. You can observe them up close from a viewing platform on the island. The island is also a nesting ground for hawksbill sea turtles, so some parts of the beach are fenced off.

Around the Half Moon Caye you have two dive sites: Half Moon Caye Wall and the Aquarium. The Half Moon Caye Wall has a vertical wall that drops about 300 metres into the deep blue ocean. At the Long Caye Aquarium you will swim along coral gardens and spot lots of colourful reef fish. We spotted sting ray, Caribbean reef sharks, groupers and a turtle.

Other activities (in case you're not into diving)

Visit the Northern part of Caye Caulker

We did not go to the Northern part of Caye Caulker because we had a full program with the diving and Oleg wasn't feeling too well a couple of days in. If you're going to explore, we would recommend renting bikes and taking the ferry across The Split (the waterway separating the North and South part of the island). There are lots of places providing bikes, our hotel recommended the ones from the Rainbow Hotel. The distances on the North side can be quite far and there aren't a lot of restaurants around so bring sunscreen and plenty of water. There are two ferry services you can use and we were told by locals that the North Side Ferry Service is the better one to use (not pictured below).

Borrow/rent a SUP or kayak

Our hotel provided these for free, it's a great way to see the island at your own pace and to spend some time on the water. You can even cross The Split to the Northern part of the island this way.

Stingray beach at Iguana Reef Inn & Tarpon feeding dock

We visited both places more out of interest and wanting to find a good spot to enjoy the sunset. At stingray beach the hotel feeds the stingrays around 16:00 which is why the stingrays visit the area. We enjoyed their dock and lounge area and just watched everyone else get into the water. It is a good spot to interact with marine life but if you're against feeding we wouldn't recommend going here.

Tarpon feeding dock is an area where juvenile tarpons (not fully grown) are swimming around in the clear blue waters. Here, you can buy small fish and hang them above the surface, watching as these powerful fish leap out of the water to snatch the food straight from your hand. If you'd rather not feed them, there is still a way to witness this. When we went on our snorkelling tour, our boat passed by this area and they said if you use a leaf or just wave your hand above the water they will also jump up. We haven't ever seen anything like this before so up close, it was definitely memorable and somewhat terrifying at the same time!

Where to stay:

La Isla Resort (115 EUR/night) - It was located walking distance from the ferry (although to be fair, Caye Caulker is quite small and everything is walkable) and located close to the dive school we booked. We had a spacious room with a balcony and on a higher floor. We would recommend not being on the ground floor. They have a great rooftop which is worth going up for sunrise and they light a bonfire every evening to encourage the guests to get together around the fire. They have their own swimming pool on site but since we were in the water every day we didn't make use of it. They also have their own beach chairs at the waterfront.

For the foodies:

Breakfast/coffee

Fry Jacks are a popular Belizean breakfast staple, consisting of deep-fried dough that puffs up into golden soft pillows. They are typically served hot and made to order, accompanied by refried beans, eggs, cheese, ham, or jam.

• Jenny's To Go Food - Caye Caulker (This ended up being our favourite breakfast place on the island. Online it says she's already open from 5:00, we only ever made it there as early as 6:00 but we love that it's opened so early. Don't let the simple exterior put you off, the food is amazing! There is a small table but it's better to grab your food to go and find a picnic table right by the water. We particularly enjoyed the honey cinnamon fry jacks, breakfast burrito and chicken and cheese stuffed fry jack. Order with Jenny and then sit back and watch all the locals trickle in and pass on their orders for her infamous taco's and fry jacks)

• Errolyn's House of Fryjacks - Caye Caulker (You can't miss the pink and lime green exterior. There are a couple of bar style seats so there is an option to sit there. We loved the fry jacks and breakfast burrito here. They just didn't offer any sweet options on the menu, perhaps you could ask for it off menu - we didn't try)

• Namaste Café - Caye Caulker (If we had more time on the island, we probably would've tried yoga here. Instead we ordered smoothies and sat on the first floor. We really enjoyed the laid back atmosphere)

• Heebie Jeebies - Caye Caulker (We went here for smoothies but they serve all sorts of drinks. Friendly staff and they have a view on the water)

Lunch/snacks

• Otis and Paula's BBQ - Caye Caulker (This was our favourite place for Belizean BBQ at the beachfront. Come early as the queues can get long. They serve pork loin, pork ribs, jerk chicken and BBQ chicken. They serve it standard with coleslaw, rice and beans but make sure to try their fresh tortillas too. We loved the BBQ sauce so would in particular recommend the pork loin and BBQ chicken. There are a couple of picnic tables right by the water where you can enjoy your meal. There are a couple of other BBQ spots right by this one but Otis & Paula's was by far the best visited one by locals)

• The Pelican Sunset Bar - Caye Caulker (This is a great spot to grab a sunset beer and lobster ceviche. They have a laid back vibe with a beautiful waterfront view)

• Amigo Ice Cream - Caye Caulker (Located in a supermarket which is also one of the better ones on the island, they serve good ice cream in handmade waffle cones)

• Spoonaz Photo Cafe and Bar - Belize City (A great spot to wait for your ferry if you want a comfortable place to sit and have some food, it's around the corner and they have free wifi)

Dinner

• Agave Bar and Grill - Caye Caulker (A lovely place for simple and quick food. We ordered street taco's and margarita's. Just make sure you take some mosquito spray with you.)

• Las Palapas Belize Restaurant - Caye Caulker (We loved this spot for date night, the place is well decorated and food is a fusion of local and international cuisine. We liked the ceviche! Same as the above, make sure to bring mosquito spray with you)

• Pasta per Caso - Caye Caulker (Pasta in Belize? We hear you but with Italians running the show and serving up homemade pasta, what’s not to love? Just one heads-up, it’s cash only. Come on...in this day and age.)

Day 5-8: San Ignacio, Caracol, Xunantunich & Green Iguana Conservation Project

San Ignacio

San Ignacio is located inland towards the west of Belize and is surrounded by lush jungles, rainforests, rivers, caves and ancient Maya ruins. Perfect for history enthusiasts and adventure seekers, it’s known as Belize’s adventure capital. The town boasts a vibrant market, a rich blend of Maya, Mestizo, and Creole cultures, and a refreshing climate thanks to its higher elevation.

Good to know before you go to San Ignacio:

• The average rainfall is 200-300mm monthly, so come prepared with rain jackets, rain ponchos or umbrellas.

• It is at an elevation so pack some warm layers, especially if you're geared up for the island climate.

• San Ignacio is quite hilly so if you're limited in mobility either take things slow or make sure you take a taxi around town.

• A lot of the activities are around San Ignacio but not walking distance, either rent a car or book guided tours through Get Your Guide or directly from Belize Caving Expeditions. We had a great experience with them.

• There aren’t many information signs at Caracol and Xunantunich, so we recommend a guided tour if you want to learn more about these Maya sites. Our guides from Belize Caving Expeditions were very knowledgeable and had even helped archaeologists with the sites’ excavation back in the day.

• This trip could easily be combined with visiting Guatemala via a border crossing. Many tourists go to Flores and Tikal as they're close to the border.

How to get to San Ignacio from Belize City:

There is one way shuttle (18 EUR per person) available to book through Get Your Guide app which is sold via Belize Caving Expeditions which brings you straight from ferry terminal in Belize city to San Ignacio city center. Somehow we were not able to find a return transfer easily online, but solved it by asking around in the ferry terminal and booked through other local company. We learned later that we could have booked it all through Belize Caving Expeditions by contacting them directly (this would be our recommendation).

Caracol

Caracol is the largest Maya site in Belize, once home to an estimated 200,000 people which is a population larger than present-day Belize City. Its ancient Maya name, Uxwitza, is believed to reference the three temples atop Caana ("Sky Palace"), which remains the tallest structure in Belize at 43.5 meters (143 feet) high.

Nestled in the foothills of the Maya Mountains, Caracol is located in the Chiquibul Forest Reserve, a rainforest that receives 3,000 mm of rain annually. The first settlements in the area date back to 1200 BC, but continuous occupation didn’t begin until around 600 BC. Caracol thrived between 600–900 AD, before it was eventually abandoned. The exact reasons remain a mystery, but historians suggest a combination of warfare, drought, and resource depletion may have led to its decline.

If you're lucky, you might spot (or hear) howler monkeys while exploring the ruins. Their eerie calls echo through the jungle, adding an almost mystical atmosphere to the site.

We spent the entire day exploring, and we were amazed to learn that only 15% of the whole site has been excavated. One fascinating part of Caracol’s history is the Maya ball game: Pok-A-Tok. It was more than just a ceremonial event. It was a display of power, a religious ritual, and a means to resolve political conflicts. Played with a solid rubber ball (weighing up to 4 kg), players used their hips, elbows, and knees (no hands or feet) to keep the ball in play and pass it through stone rings mounted on the court walls. The outcome of the game could be linked to human sacrifice, though there is debate whether the winners or losers were sacrificed. It was believed to be an honour to have your strongest players offered to the gods.

One of the best things about Caracol is that it still feels like a hidden gem. Unlike more commercialised ruins, there are no fences, and visitors can climb the structures freely, making for an unforgettable experience. Most of the time it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. However, getting there isn't easy, you’ll need a 4x4 vehicle to navigate the rough and muddy roads. That said, a major road improvement project is underway, including the construction of new bridges over the rivers. Looking at the progress, we expect it will take 5 more years to complete. If you want to experience Caracol before it becomes as crowded as Chichén Itzá, now is the time to visit!

Xunantunich

Pronounced shoo-nan-too-nitch (to remember it you can think of tuna sandwich). Perched high on a hill with views that stretch into Guatemala, Xunantunich was the Maya version of a luxury lookout. Just across the Mopan River, this ancient city buzzed with life centuries ago. To visit this site you will have to cross this river with a hand-cranked ferry.

Xunantunich meaning “Maiden of the Rock” stems from the legend of a mysterious woman. The first sighting was by a villager from San Jose Succotz, who claimed to have seen this mysterious lady near the site. Dressed in white with glowing red eyes, she’s said to appear and vanish into stone walls.

At the heart of Xunantunich stands El Castillo, a 40-meter-tall pyramid that still holds the title of tallest structure in the area. What makes it unique are the ornate friezes carved into its East and West sides, depicting celestial beings, gods, and rulers are still in tact. Plaster replicas have been placed in front of the original friezes on El Castillo. This was done to protect the intricate carvings from weathering and erosion. But there’s another curious feature. Unlike other Maya pyramids, the main stairs don’t go all the way to the top.

Why? One theory is that Xunantunich’s people were a tough crowd, not easily impressed by the royals. The rulers had to put on quite the performance to maintain their authority. Imagine this: the king ascends the front stairs, only to vanish halfway up. Out of sight, he takes a secret side route, does a quick wardrobe change, and reappears at the summit in full regal splendour. It was more than just a climb, it was an act of spectacle and illusion!

Side quest: Green Iguana Conservation Project

Ticket price (11.25 USD per person). If you don't fancy booking activities every single day of your stay in San Ignacio, there is something to do in town. Visit the Green Iguana Conservation Project and is located on the premises of the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. Green iguanas are not officially listed as endangered but they are vulnerable because they are hunted for their meat and eggs. Especially during breeding season. This conservation project aims to preserve and protect iguanas by educating and raising awareness to locals and visitors. They also take in injured iguanas or those that have been kept in captivity. They also release healthy iguanas back into the wild. It's a great way to learn about these friendly reptiles and there are a couple that will stay in the enclosure and those are fine to interact with as a visitor.

Other activities:

Cahal Pech - One of the oldest Maya sites in Western Belize. It's only about a mile from the centre of San Ignacio so can be reached on foot. Just be aware that Maya sites are often located on hills and it will be an uphill walk.

ATM Caves (Actun Tunichil Muknal) - This is a sacred Maya cave and we have heard and read many reviews that this is one of the highlights around San Ignacio. The cave has well preserved Maya articifacts and remains of human sacrifice. You will need to wade through narrow passageways and be comfortable in water. No phones or camera's are allowed on the tour due to the fragile environment and to preserve the artifacts.

We didn't do either of these activities because we had to make choices but if you've got enough time or would like to do something different it could be worth checking out!

Where to stay:

Rainforest Haven Inn (71 EUR/night) - We liked this place for its great location and the convenience of a communal kitchen with a shared fridge. It's simple, comfortable and budget friendly. The owner is incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home. One of the highlights is the rooftop, which is connected to Marie Sharp's Tourist Center & Culinary Class, run by the neighboring owners. They offer cooking classes, as well as hot sauce and rum tastings. We spent an afternoon on the rooftop, enjoying a cold beer and great conversation with the owner, whose warm hospitality made the experience even more memorable.

For the foodies:

San Ignacio is known for its outdoor adventures, but it’s also a fantastic spot to explore Belizean food culture. Visit Marie Sharp's Tourist Center & Culinary Class for unique experiences like cooking classes, hot sauce tastings, and rum tastings. If you choose the cooking class, you’ll start with a trip to the local market for fresh produce. The hot sauce makes for a great souvenir to bring back home and if you're into rum you can't miss the rum tasting.

Breakfast/coffee

• El Fogon - San Ignacio (Located in the San Ignacio market and opens at 7:00am, they serve breakfast and lunch. It was our absolute favourite place for breakfast! They serve anything from a Belizean breakfast to burrito's and taco's. They make their tortillas fresh and cook them in their clay oven. The portions are generous and everything we had was delicious. We recommend ordering fresh orange juice.)

• Mike's Kitchen - San Ignacio (It's a simple restaurant serving Belizean favourites like fry jacks, eggs, and beans. Grab a seat outside and watch as the nearby market begins to stir. Opening at 5:00 a.m., it’s great for an early bite before your day’s adventures)

• Coffee de los Mayas  - San Ignacio (A great place for coffee, they have limited seating but it's usually not that busy. Otherwise grabbing it to go and strolling down the main shopping street is a good alternative.)

Lunch/snacks

• Zullibeth Tacos - San Ignacio (A hole in the wall type of taco place. We recommend their 1 USD street taco's!)

• The Ice Cream Shoppe - San Ignacio (A good place for ice cream and if it's too hot to be outside, you can sit inside with the comfort of the A/C.)

  
  

Dinner

• Guava Limb Restaurant & Cafe - San Ignacio (It was our favourite place for dinner, the interior as well as the food was amazing. The food is more fusion than traditional and mostly Latin-Caribbean inspired. We recommend making a reservation.)

• Ko-Ox Han Nah (Let's Go Eat) - San Ignacio (This restaurant prides themselves in having their own chicken and lamb farm and even has a butcher shop in town. We recommend trying their pork loin dish with Korean style sauce. We weren't huge fans of the burritos and quesadillas so would skip those.)